Pullman
3424 Parc Avenue (near Sherbrooke Street West)
Montreal, Quebec H2X 2H5
(514) 288-7779
www.pullman-mtl.com
Hours: Sun-Sat: 4:30 p.m. – 1 a.m.
Vegetarian-friendly
Average for meal/person, excluding wine, taxes, and tip: $20-$25
Wine by glass (two-ounce and 4-ounce): $4-$20
Major cards and Interac
Rating: ◊◊◊◊ (excellent)
Wine goblet chandelier at Pullman
It has become fashionably hip to sip, and wine bars, bars à vins, and bistrots à vins have carved a niche on the epicurean scene worldwide and continue to gain popularity. As more people have developed and acquired a cultivated taste for food and its eternal companion wine, they embrace eagerly the intellectual stimulation associated with the gastronomic culture, and the appealing allure of this restaurant genre, i.e., the accessibility and affordability of fine wine and food, the ambiance of conviviality and comfort, and the air of informality and sophistication. At these vinous establishments, not only can we explore and experience the fascinating and intriguing world of wine, but we can also discover the wonderful world of culinary delights and savour the clever interplay of small plates and creative wine pairings.
There are a number of trendy wine bars that have uncorked in the cosmopolitan metropolis of Montreal since the vintage year of 2003, and tucked away discretely in the unglamorous Quartier des spectacles of this city, we find Pullman, a swanky hideaway spot dedicated to the sophisticated pleasures of wine and food that tempt and delight the palate. Set in the premises which formerly housed a carpet store, this institute draws its name and inspiration from the luxury railroad sleeping car devoted to fine cuisine invented by the American tycoon George Pullman in the mid-nineteenth century. The award-winning design of this modish mecca is masterminded by Pullman co-owner and interior designer of Cabinet Braun-Braën Bruno Braën, who was also responsible for the stylish interior of the upscale restaurants Le Club Chasse et Pêche and DNA in Old Montreal. The interior décor of the split-level space is bold and eclectic, a successful mix of modern and classic design, raw and refined materials, and Old World and New World motifs. In its opulent industrial setting, open walls of stone and concrete surround the space furnished with train-inspired chairs and tables, bolted-down steel bar chair bases, leather- and hide-upholstered stools and banquettes, warm wood counters, eccentric suspended light fixtures, and minimalist cave-drawing paintings. The austere portrait which hangs on one wall inside the entranceway of this eponymous bar à vins pays tribute to the father of the luxury Pullman palace car. Suspended from the ceiling in front of the mezzanine, the monumental chandelier is a magnificently mesmerizing piece of accessory, the central feature of this eighty-seat cocktail lounge. Beautiful and original in design, the fragile and intricate three-foot installation created by Braën is composed of a reshaped wineglass rack and a collection of champagne flutes, wine and sherry glasses—two hundred eighty-three glass wine goblets to be exact.
The funky yet hip and über cool décor is only a visual preamble to the wine bar’s tantalizing and sophisticated offerings. Since wine is Pullman’s raison d’être, the principal emphasis and central attraction is, of course, the stunning lineup of wines, a spectacular and audacious selection of three hundred varietals from around the world (a substantial number of the wines are from France), about half of which are privately imported. Chief sommelière Véronique Dalle, who discovers, tastes, and handpicks wines here and abroad, creates and compiles the extensive and continually evolving carte des vins, which allows you to savour wines by the bottle or by the glass (two-ounce or four-ounce tasting); you could sample a trio of unique cuvées (three two-ounce tastings) from the vineyards of Corsica or the Rhône Valley, a glass of Alsace riesling, Napa Valley zinfandel, Valais red, Vacqueyras rosé, or one from the leading wine-producing countries such as France, Italy, Spain, the United States, Germany, Australia, and Portugal, and from emerging wine-producing countries such as Austria, Switzerland, and Lebanon. Or, if you are more in the mood for a martini, Pullman also offers a varied but limited selection of classic and en-vogue cocktails.
Hand in hand with the wine, the haute-cuisine food also takes center stage and equally dazzles at this chic location. The executive chef, Stélio Perombelon, formerly chef-owner of the now defunct Outremont restaurant Les Chèvres and currently chef of the restaurant Les Cons Servent, executes masterfully the dishes from within the confines of the open kitchen. The menu, which varies and changes regularly, features international contemporary cuisine. Consisting of a diversified array of tapas-style dishes, the alluring menu entices you to an inviting gourmet dégustation, ranging from the simplest to the most elaborate dish; from a plate of charcuterie or regional cheeses and a bowl of slender green beans enhanced with truffle oil and sprinkled with roasted almonds; to fancy finger food treats like fresh lettuce leaf “cigars” filled with tender and succulent strips of Thai-seasoned beef and belted with green onion ribbons, savoury “General Tao” sweetbreads lightly glazed in a delectable sauce and served in Asian soup spoons, decadent Valrhona chocolate truffles, and toothsome corn cornets filled with orange-flavoured mascarpone. The plate presentations are stunningly gorgeous and soigné to the eye. And happily, the food tastes as good as it looks.
Cerignola olives marinated in fennel and lemon
At my most recent visit to Pullman, my dining companion and I sampled a selected group of four dishes. Our late afternoon meal of tapas was smartly matched with an expressive white wine from the Andes in Chile, a 2007 Primavera from the Domaine Clos Ouvert which delivered a pronounced fruity aroma, a dramatic complexity, and an attractive balance.
The first tapa dish, a bowl of Bella di Cerignola olives marinated in fennel and lemon, was so unpretentiously simple, yet it was perplexedly delightful. Dotted with fennel seeds and crowned with an elegant pile of slivered threads of lemon zest, the large Italian green olives were refreshing and delicately sweet in flavour.
The three other dishes were served simultaneously and were presented visually as little masterpieces of art. Of the three tapas, the root vegetable appetizer was the most striking in plate presentation. Set against a background of neutral white, the color of deep burgundy, along with hues of magenta, prevailed, interspersed sparingly with splashes of grass green and natural ecru. Here, creating a modern look in design, firm and moist cubes of roasted beet lightly laced with Xeres, pungent and coarse-textured blocks of pecorino cheese, and semi-firm squares of basil jelly tinged with garlic, were individually and neatly assembled on the large, oblong serving plate. An artistic scattering of fresh, delicate mesclun garnished gracefully the assorted cubes, adding a whimsical touch to the overall structural composition of the culinary art piece, an imaginative play of colour, texture, and taste.
Assorted tapas-style dishes, from top to bottom: roasted beet, pecorino cheese, and basil jelly; tuna tartare spiced with piment d’Espelette and smoked paprika; and blini with salmon gravlax and crème fraîche
Modern design continued to be accented in the presentation of the next dish. Mildly spiced with piment d’Espelette and smoked paprika and freckled with toasted white and black sesame seeds, the little square blocks of tuna tartare were arranged in a horizontal line and served with three sizable pieces of crisp melba toast. Curled onion strands decorated daintily the dish, giving a playful character to the plate presentation.
But it was the final dish that was the most outstanding and exquisite in taste. Immensely saporous, the plate of salmon delicacies was a refreshing spin on a classic smørrebrød canapé. Here, a small mound of chopped salmon gravlax doused in dill-studded crème fraîche nested atop each of the four thin blini bases, each piece adorned with a tiny sprig of dill. Delicate in flavour, the dressed, Scandinavian-style cured fish was velvety in texture, while the accompanying mini Russian pancakes, which revealed a gentle hint of sweetness, were light and spongy. Each bite was absolutely scrumptious.
During all visits, the service, smooth and well-paced, was courteous and professional. The warm and friendly waiting staff, many of whom are also skilled sommeliers, are knowledgeable and were not hesitant to assist you with wine selections and wine and food pairings. At this posh place, you are treated very well; warm hand towels proffered before the meal and plates changed between each “service” (i.e., the presentation of the tapa dish or set of tapas) were just a few of the little exemplary details that made the experiences especially enjoyable.
With wallet-friendly indulges, great gourmet food and wonderful wine to be shared and enjoyed with a company of good friends in a cozy and cool environment, what is there to whine about aboard the Pullman? If you haven’t visited this urban destination yet, then reserve a seat, be it downstairs in the grotto-like S-shaped Grand Bar, near the floor-to-ceiling windows on the ground level, or upstairs in the intimate mezzanine lounge, and see and experience for yourself what foodies, oenophiles, and I are talking about.
