The 26th season of the Orchestre symphonique de Longueuil

The Orchestre symphonique de Longueuil, under the direction of Maestro Luc Chaput, welcomes the Canadian pianist Minna Re Shin, in the upcoming concert entitled “Cinémaestro.”

Rediscover the great classics which have made a mark in cinema, including an excerpt from Richard Strauss’ Sprach Zarathustra, featured in Stanley Kubrick’s film 2001: A Space Odyssey, and Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart’s Concerto for Piano and Orchestra No. 21 in C major, K. 467, associated with the Swedish film Elvira Madigan.

The concert will be presented on Thursday, January 26, 2012 at 8 p.m. at the Pratt & Whitney Canada Hall in the Théâtre de la Ville, 150 Gentilly St. East, Longueuil (Quebec) J4H 4A9.

Tickets: $55, $25 (service charge not included)

Ticket Office: Théâtre de la Ville: (450) 670-1616 ou purchase online at www.osdl.ca

The 26th season of the Orchestre symphonique de Longueuil is a presentation of Groupe Duval Auto in association with Agropur.

The Grands Concerts Series is a presentation of the National Bank of Canada in association with Biron Groupe Santé.

La 26e saison de l’Orchestre symphonique de Longueuil

À l’occasion de son prochain concert, L’Orchestre symphonique de Longueuil, sous la direction de Maestro Luc Chaput, accueille la pianiste canadienne Minna Re Shin, dans le cadre du concert « Cinémaestro ».

Redécouvrez les plus beaux airs classiques qui ont marqués le cinéma, parmi lesquels un extrait de Ainsi parlait Zarathustra de Richard Strauss, associé au film de Stanley Kubrick 2001, l’Odyssée de l’espace et le Concerto pour piano et orchestre No 21 en do majeur, K. 467 de Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, associé au film suédois Elvira Madigan.

Le concert sera présenté jeudi, le 26 janvier 2012 à 20 h à la salle Pratt & Whitney Canada du Théâtre de la Ville, 150 rue de Gentilly Est, Longueuil (Québec) J4H 4A9.

Billets : $55, $25 (frais de service non inclus)

Billetterie : Théâtre de la Ville : (450) 670-1616 ou achat en ligne www.osdl.ca

La 26^e saison de l’Orchestre symphonique de Longueuil est une présentation du Groupe Duval Auto en association avec Agropur.

La Série Grands concerts est une présentation de la Banque Nationale du Canada en association avec Biron Groupe Santé.

Entrance of the Marché Caisse Noisette

The holiday season, a hectic yet high-spirited time of warm reflection, joyful commemoration, and festive celebration of life, tradition, culture, heritage, and togetherness, embraces the spirit of giving and sharing. Filled with joy, goodwill, peace, love, and laughter, the various overlapping winter holiday festivities—Hanukkah, Christmas, and Kwanzaa—steeped in rich traditions and customs, encompass the winter solstice in the northern hemisphere and honour light and the return of light.

People in many parts of the world observe the enchanting entrance into deep winter as they usher in the frosty season and, together with friends, family, and those nearest and dearest to them, celebrate the special occasion with food and drink. From light, crispy potato latkes, earthy, spicy Jollof rice, and succulent golden roast goose to honey-sweetened, citrusy ginger Lebkuchen, glacé-fruit-studded, nut-laden panforte, and decorative, rolled Génoise bûches de Noël, the repast tables around the globe are graced with delicious celebratory culinary delicacies. While the resplendent holiday feast is an integral and indispensable part of the jovial fête, gift-giving continues to be a favourite holiday activity during the winter celebrations. There are a multitude of holiday shopping destinations for people in pursuit of personalized presents, but the ephemeral Christmas markets, which abound during the four weeks of Advent, provide shoppers with a wide choice of inspirational and original gift ideas. These highly traditional winter street markets originated from Dresden, Germany in the first half of the fifteenth century, and since then, Christkindlmärkte, which continue to be highly regarded in that country, have flourished and branched out worldwide.

In Montreal and other cities in the province of Quebec, a number of annual Marchés de Noël and Christmas arts and crafts shows have become popular events with locals and tourists alike; many of them are artisan fairs and exhibitions which showcase high-quality wares deftly handcrafted and handmade by local and regional producers and designers. Although they are generally smaller in scale compared to the majority of Europe’s fabled urban Weihnachtsmärkte which are held outdoors in main town squares and neighbouring pedestrian areas, the Christmas markets in Canada’s City of Lights, which, for the most part, are staged in indoor venues, capture, nonetheless, the romance, revelry, splendour, and spirit of the holiday season.

This past year, I found the occasion to visit not one but several winter artisan markets. These cultural attractions, with their vast array of unique items, offer something for every taste and budget, from designer clothing, fashion accessories, and beauty care products, like fragrant perfumes and scented soaps, to home furnishings, children toys, and gourmet treats, like fine cheeses and high-quality teas. There were countless, fabulous finds that I had discovered, too many to recount and describe in this space, but here are a few selected highlights of two of the holiday fairs that I had attended.

Le Domaine de la Vallée du Bras Omerto tomato vintage wines

The second edition of the Marché Caisse Noisette, which represents the first philanthropic Christmas market in Montreal, was held at the Mall of the Palais des Congrès de Montréal, the interior space enchantingly transformed into a fairy-lit holiday shopping haven. During this enthralling event, ten percent of proceeds from each merchant and all revenues earned by Les Grands Ballets Canadiens de Montréal (GBCM) went to The Nutcracker Fund for Children, initiated fourteen years ago by Les Grands Ballets Canadiens de Montréal—which help ill-stricken and underprivileged children in the Greater Montreal region attend cultural and educational workshops and experience a magical performance of The Nutcracker—and towards production costs of the ballet. Out of the eighty exhibitors who participated in this fairytale fair, almost half of them were purveyors of specialty foods and wines.

A variety of fine artisan wines and liqueurs from Quebec were featured at the Marché. In addition to well-established, reputable enterprises such as the esteemed cidrerie La Face Cachée de la Pomme of Hemmingford and the venerable winery Vignoble de l’Orpailleur of Dunham, Le Domaine de la Vallée du Bras, located in the Charlevoix area, presented the world’s first tomato vintage wines with Omerto, its small but distinctive line of apéritif vintage wines made from locally grown organic heirloom tomatoes. Produced by Belgian-born viticulteur Pascal Miche, both the sec and sparkling wine versions, which are based on his great-grandfather’s recipe, exuded grapefruit and herbaceous notes and reminded me of some of the Bohemian wines that I had tasted in Europe. Absolutely mind-blowing.

Of course, the Nutcracker Market would be unthinkably incomplete without a Confiturembourg. At this past year’s edition, the lavish Land of Sweets enticed sweet-tooth visitors to alluring kiosks replete with confections, cookies, and cakes.

Cao handmade chocolate truffles

Among the chocolate artisans present at the fair, including Schokoladenmeister Hermann Zuccatti of Chocolats Suisses and confectioner Claudine Desnoyers of Le Comptoir Chocolat, who, along with her team, created a fair-trade and organic dark chocolate puzzle exclusively for the Marché, chef and chocolatier Alain Vaidie of Cao seduced shoppers with his ambrosial, textured chocolate truffles. Cloaked in different coatings like cocoa powder and minced nuts, the hand-sculpted, fungus-shaped nuggets, with soft ganache centres concocted from premium Valrhona and Cacao Barry chocolates and perfumed with fine, exotic ingredients like Iranian saffron, Madras curry, Japanese matcha, and passion fruit, titillated the fancy of foodie aficionados. From the traditional “truffe royale” and “caramel au beurre salé” to the innovative “pamplemousse confit” and “fenugrec érable,” these sumptuous, scrumptious delights were sexy, sensual, and sensory-provoking.

Besides the sweet and savoury shortbread cookies from Toronto’s Coach House Shortbread Company and the celebrated and colourful Parisian macarons from Montreal’s La Maison du Macaron, owned and operated by French pastry chefs-owners Johan and Gaëlle Crop, and from Boucherville’s Christophe Morel Chocolatier, owned and overseen by pastry and chocolate wizard Christophe Morel, other baked pastries awaited visitors. Among Toque & Tablier’s small yet ambitious collection of refined, sophisticated gâteaux which incorporate unusual flavours and ingredients, the Drummondville bakery’s limited edition of the renowned “Le Distingué,” which is filled with a generous mélange of fruits and nuts, soaked in rum, and ripened for one year, revives the glorious reputation of the classic Christmas cake. And this year, chef-pâtissier-designer Thomas Schneider of the Première Moisson boulangerie-pâtisserie-charcuterie chain collaborated with internationally renowned fashion designer Jean-Claude Poitras to conceive the special “Signature Chamade” dessert log, signed Jean-Claude Poitras, a chic and contemporary twist on the beloved bûche de Noël. Creamy and crunchy, intense and delicate, the spectacularly stunning sweet composition revealed a base consisting of an almond Joconde and Kohbz Tunes with caramelized pecans beneath a dense layer of Cluizel Maralumi 64% dark chocolate mousse and a copious cushion of guava and passion fruit crémeux and marmalade, the whole enrobed with milk chocolate frosting. With a simple touch of artistic flair and modern elegance, the luscious Yule log was surmounted with a dark chocolate female torso—a prominent design motive found in the Poitras, 13 rue de l’univers living collection of textiles, tableware, furniture, and art pieces for the home—and dressed with a signed golden ribbon, completing the gorgeous and glamorous presentation of the luxurious holiday dessert. The edible artwork, which harmoniously combined the past with the present and the familiar with the foreign, delighted not only the eye but also the palate of the beauty seeker.

Première Moisson's Bûche "Signature Chamade" signed Jean-Claude Poitras

Equally exciting, diverse, and accessible, the highly acclaimed Salon des métiers d’art du Québec (SMAQ), which attracts more than 200,000 visitors each year, continues to provide a window into the robust Québecois and Canadian cultural scene. Considered to be one of the most important professional arts and crafts show in North America, the annual Salon, in its 56th year, displayed the work and wares of about four hundred artisans in the exhibition hall of Place Bonaventure in downtown Montreal. The gargantuan exhibition-sale, which originally was devoted solely to textiles and design, has evolved gradually over the years due to the influence of cultural trends and movements. As the foodie culture continues to gain momentum, the Salon enthusiastically embraces gastronomic and œnologic pleasures, and this year was no exception.

As encountered at the Nutcracker Market, an abundance of condiments, confitures, sauces, and spreads were found at this large-scale event. The local Les Condiments Varia, which drew its initial inspiration from a family recipe of port wine jelly, has expanded its impressive lines of produits du terroir to include other wine jelly concoctions like jalapeños and white wine jelly, ginger and rosé wine jelly, and port wine and cognac wine jelly; onion confits starring unconventional combinations like cranberry and port wine, maple syrup and white wine, and blueberry and brandy; and caramel sauces inflected with ingredients like fleur de sel, amaretto, and brandy. At the stall of Ontarion Henderson Farms, the fruits of Robert Henderson’s labour were preserved in his all-natural jams, jellies, and marmalades, many of which have won awards at national agricultural fairs, festivals, and food shows. The collection, handmade in small batches, ranged from old-fashioned strawberry jam and orange and lemon marmalade to original spreads like apricot and jalapeño pepper jelly, which unleashed a spicy kick, and wild dandelion wine jelly, which was based on his grandmother’s wine recipe and made from organic dandelions from his farm. In a similar vein of remarkable culinary creativity, Gérald Le Gal’s Gourmet Sauvage, situated in Saint-Adèle, pays tribute to the Canadian wilderness and the rich, ancient Amerindian tradition of Canada with its unique gourmet specialties prepared from a variety of carefully handpicked organic fruits, vegetables, and mushrooms. Baies d’amélanchier compote, balsam fir jelly, milkweed pod ketchup, sea asparagus mustard, pickled cattail hearts, and dried morel mushrooms, to name a few, may sound wild and strange, but they were eye- and palate-opening examples of the producer’s phenomenal lineup of delectable botanical delights.

Entrance of Le Salon des métiers d’art du Québec

At other kiosks positioned in the exhibition’s “Pavillon des saveurs,” preserved meat and charcuterie fare were presented. There were pasture-to-plate Moulard duck foie gras and Muscovy duck rillettes from the artisanal farm Les Canardises in Saint-Ferréol-les-Neiges, and pâté de campagne au canard, crème brûlée au foie gras, and imaginative game terrines from Ducs de Montrichard of Mont Orford. But there were also farm-to-table goose foie gras items from Natacha Jobin and Simon Brousseau’s La Ferme Québec-Oies, stationed in Saint-Ferréol-les-Neiges. From silken mousse de foie gras to comforting cassoulet d’oie, the dainty, decadent delicacies, smoother, subtler, and less gamy than that of duck, were a rare luxury indulgence that was worth savouring and splurging.

The SMAQ also shone the spotlight on other professional crafts. Again this past year, jewellery design continued to dominate this major Montreal show as almost a quarter of the participated artisan exhibitors were jewellery makers. From simple earrings to elaborate necklaces, the eclectic creations were diverse in style, form, composition, and expression. Montreal-based joaillière Anne-Marie Chagnon, who launches a new collection every year exclusively for Cirque du Soleil, meticulously shapes fine leather, pewter, glass, resin, and 22-karat gold into bold, versatile pieces of wearable art, a harmonious and playful alliance of beauty and free-spiritedness. In the case of jewellery-artist Sylvie Beaulieu, she explores glass fusion and sterling silver—the transparency of glass against the opacity of metal—in her work. Among her mixed media collection, her necklace piece entitled “11111011001,” which depicts human dependence on technology, incorporates recycled copper wires fused between glass layers and features engraved binary code numbers which represent 2009, the year the piece was created. Every piece of jewellery tells a narrative, and this was just one of the many stories that were shared at the Salon.

Jewellery pieces, including necklace “11111011001” (top) by jewellery-artist Sylvie Beaulieu

At both winter events, I took the time to admire and appreciate the work of the artisan vendors, as I rambled around, weaving in and out of the numerous stalls. Instilled with nostalgic charm and heartwarming simplicity, the Christmas fairs provided an intriguing glimpse into a captivating world of artistic effervescence and dexterous craftsmanship, where timeless traditions mingle with creative imagination. It was an exciting and enjoyable experience to browse and shop for special holiday gifts and to explore, rediscover, and indulge in, some of life’s finest yet simplest pleasures during one of the most magical moments of the year.

Now that the holiday season celebrations have drawn to an end, we welcome wholeheartedly the arrival of the New Year. Yet as we close the chapter on our recent past festivities, another holiday festival is lurking just around the corner. The Lunar Year of 4710 will be upon us in several days, and I, along with numerous Asians here and abroad, will ring in the auspicious Year of the Black Water Dragon in grand style and with a mighty roar.

So on this jubilant and buoyant note, I would like to wish my readers a wonderful New Year filled with peace, prosperity, serenity, health, and happiness, and to those who also celebrate the Lunar New Year, gung hei fat choy!  Sun nean fai lok!  Gōng xǐ fā cái!  Xīn nián kuài lè! 恭喜發財! 新年快樂! Chúc mừng năm mới! Cung hỉ phát tài! Sae hae bok mani badu seyo! 새해 복 많이 받으세요!

"Long live Quebec pork" mural

In the world of gastronomy, food fads and fashions come and go like the changing of the seasons, but one particular trendy, meaty ingredient which has made its mark on the North American restaurant scene over the last several years, continues to gain popularity on menus of fine and casual dining. There has been a renewed respect for pork, the “other white meat,” or rather, the “other red meat” that earlier generations have enjoyed, and porcine pleasures are back en vogue, from pork tenderloin and pork belly to sausages and charcuterie. So what is the skinny on pork? Due to the growing availability of high-quality niche pork products like pastured, milk-fed, organic, and heirloom pork, such as the coveted Berkshire, the esteemed Yorkshire, and the prized Nagano, to name a few, and culinary influences of variegated ethnic cultures like the cuisines of China, the Pacific Islands, Mexico, and Britain, chefs are rediscovering the culinary, gustatory, and nutritious attributes of this red-hot hog meat, which continues to be one of the widely consumed and utilized meats in the world. Succulently flavourful and exceptionally versatile, pork, which is leaner than beef, lends itself to a myriad of different preparations—it can be braised, roasted, grilled, smoked, fried, sautéed, browned, caramelized, cured, brined, sous-vide-cooked, breaded, crusted, crispy or melting, plain or elaborate—and flavoursome combinations—sweet, sour, salty, spicy, smoky, bitter, umami, or simultaneously all of the above. Here and across the continent, chefs are enamoured and infatuated with pork and all things pig, from sweetbreads, rind, and lardo to offal, jowls, and trotters, and they are turning increasingly towards the humble hog for culinary inspiration.

Punches of pork are popping up in dishes at gastronomic establishments and culinary events across North America. At trendsetting chef David Chang’s eateries Momofuku Noodle Bar and Momofuku Ssäm Bar in New York City, his signature dish of pillowy, soft steamed buns filled with brined and roasted pork belly, hoisin sauce, fresh scallion, and pickled cucumber is an American original twist on a fusion of several Asian classic delicacies: the traditional Taiwanese street food guā bāo (刮包), the well-loved Cantonese finger food char siu bao or chā shāo bāo in Mandarin (叉燒包), the popular Japanese nosh staple nikuman (肉まん), Japan’s variant of the Chinese bāo zi (包子), and the epitome of Beijing cuisine, the famous Peking roast duck (北京烤鴨). Luminary chef Scott Drewno at The Source by Wolfgang Puck in Washington, D.C., also possesses a propensity towards Asian cuisine. As a contemporary and cutting-edge reinterpretation of the Chinese celebratory delicacy siu jyu zyu or shāo rǔ zhū in Mandarin (燒乳猪), his iconic creation reveals tender cubes of crispy-skinned suckling pig slow-roasted and slow-cooked in duck fat, topped with yuzu-pickled cipollini onions, and enhanced with roasted pork jus, Chinese 10 spice, black plum purée, and Chinese sweet bean purée. On a more ambitious level, award-winning chef Michael Mina’s trademark concoction of bourbon-peppercorn-braised Kurobuta pork short ribs served with a hock jus reduction, quince, pearl onions, ham hock croquettes, green vegetables, and crispy pig’s ears offers a glamorous and luxurious taste of the burgeoning food fashion trend of nose-to-tail cooking and eating through the prism of the celebrity culinarian’s refined, Japanese- and French-influenced, modern American cuisine at his namesake restaurant in San Francisco. And at the prestigious Canadian Culinary Championships held last February in Kelowna, B.C., 2011 Gold medalist winner Martin Juneau, rising star chef of Newtown in Montreal, showcased his refined, contemporary French-style cuisine and crafted a confident, Canadian-oriented dish of confited St. Canut pork belly with red beet glaze, red beet purée, cooked and raw beet slices, onion strips pickled in beet juice, fresh dill fronds, and Granny Smith apple jelly, but also a rustic yet deceptively sophisticated dish of soft, freestyle boudin noir, a sausage made primarily of pig’s blood, set atop a purée of white beans, which was plated with a deconstructed chutney of shallots, a reduction of a 2008 La Stella Fortissimo merlot-cabernet-sangiovese wine, and a drizzle of parsley oil, the ensemble adorned with a thin Melba toast garnished with bone marrow butter and a scattering of fresh tarragon, parsley, and scallions. These inventive dishes are just a few of the countless examples of high-fashion pork fare that has fattened restaurant menus in North America.

Table centrepiece at “La Manifestation Gourmande”

At a recent gourmet event in which I had the privilege of partaking, the passion for pork continues to be placed in the limelight, in particular, pork from the province of Quebec which graces the tables here and abroad. To celebrate and honour the praiseworthy produce and Quebec’s glory of pork, La Fédération des producteurs de porcs du Québec (FPPQ), which represents the interests of 3900 pork producers located in twelve regional syndicates in the province, organized “La Manifestation gourmande,” an urban mechoui soirée at one of the Canadian heritage landmarks in downtown Montreal. For the festive fête, which occurred last September, the azure blue carpet, which was rolled out in front of the historic Windsor Station, formerly the metropolis’s central railway terminal and Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR) headquarters office, led us to the brightly lit main concourse in the interior of the Romanesque Revival monument which was transformed into an inviting banquet hall. More than 900 people, including various pork producers and purveyors, public figures, media personalities, chefs, consumers, and food lovers, attended the tenue de ville affair. Local guest artist harpist and composer M’Michèle, accompanied by DJ Stéphane Leclerc and electric bass guitarist Louis Lalancette, performed during the evening, providing instrumental lounge music through the use of electric harp and sampling.

The convivial occasion marked the unveiling of a new label with an updated logo for cuts that are exclusive to Quebec pork and the launch of two new Quebec Pork television ads marked with a sense of humour as part of the agricultural association’s advertising and publicity campaign designed to further reach out to, and connect with, the current consumer market and to stimulate and promote greater awareness of the fine quality of Quebec pork, which is, incidentally, thirty percent leaner than it was twenty-five years ago. Due to the exemplary expertise and savoir-faire of swine producers, the innovative research in the development of pork production, the stringent food safety regulations and very specific quality standards, and the current demands of the consumer market, Quebec’s hog industry continues to thrive and flourish as it remains a prominent player in domestic and foreign markets. As the second largest producer of pigs in Canada behind Ontario, Quebec currently exports sixty percent of its pork products, from offals to live hogs, to more than 125 countries, including the United States, Japan, Russia, Mexico, Hong Kong, South Korea, China, and Australia.

Dinner menu at “La Manifestation Gourmande”

At the pig-out pork party, the highlight of the evening was, of course, the food. Along with the Las Olas Traiteur team, who catered the special event, invited Montreal culinarians Louis-François Marcotte, superstar chef and owner of Simpléchic, Le Local, and Le Hangar restaurants, who is also host of the cooking show “Le Goût de Louis” on Canal Vie and author of four recipe books, and Jonathan Garnier, prolific Côte d’Azur-born chef and co-proprietor of the reputable Montreal cooking school La Guilde Culinaire and co-star of the reality cooking show “Ça va chauffer!” on TVA, prepared the massive mechoui. I was familiar with Marcotte’s cuisine as I found several opportunities to sample a variety of his dishes at the urban, trendy Le Local, and I still remember vividly his delectable dish of pork échine braised in red wine accompanied with curd-cheese-and-roasted-garlic mash potato, bourguignonne egg, cipollini onions, and sautéed mushroom and bacon. As I sipped my fruity vodka-based cocktail the time-honoured Sex on the Beach and nibbled a slice of fresh flaxseed bread from the bread basket on the table, I waited in anticipation to see what Garnier and Marcotte had cooked up for the soirée.

Pork mechoui (photo: courtesy of La Fédération des producteurs de porcs du Québec)

For the barbecue roast, each chef created his own particular mechoui marinade. In Marcotte’s marinade sèche au sesame recipe, his dry rub was made with toasted sesame seeds, black peppercorns, fresh thyme, garlic, lemon zest, and cassonade, while Garnier’s Mexican version, which was influenced by his passion for travel, incorporated an alluring amalgam of ingredients from smoked chile pasilla de Oaxaca, smoked sweet paprika, and cayenne pepper to coriander, fresh ginger, and tequila. For the evening’s mechoui, a revised take on the traditional North African celebration lamb dish, thirty headless, footless, and gutless pork carcasses were slowly roasted on a spit over burning charcoal embers, each for six hours, in the courtyard just outside the stone venue. In both cases, the lean pork meat, with faint wisps of flavour from the absorbed seasoned and herbed marinade, was firm yet tender, moist, and tasty. Served alongside the barbecued fare, a set of different complementing condiments, all made fresh from scratch, added a palate-pleasing pizzazz to the hearty, slow-cooked meat. Crossing over from the savoury to the sweet side, the pleasurable apple purée enlivened with cinnamon was tartly sweet, while the zesty tomato and pineapple sauce brought together the luscious sweetness of the bromeliad fruit and the acidic tang of the tomato. In the chunky guacamole sharpened with fresh cilantro, the delicate flavour of the fresh, ripe avocados shone through, and the addition of Tabasco sauce imparted a spicy kick to the Garnier-based Mexican-style concoction.

Two hot dishes were offered as side accompaniments to the principal pork dish. Gently browned and generously speckled with minced parsley, the pommes de terre parisiennes were slightly on the salty side, while a mix of orange, yellow, and white Nantes carrots sautéed in butter were delightfully toothsome.

The salad course consisted of two types of vegetable-laden dishes. Although the fresh, fattouch-inspired salad did not include the customary toasted and “crumbled” pita bread chips, it displayed a colourful, flavourful, and textural mélange of baby leaf greens, cucumbers, red tomatoes, radishes, celery, green, red, and yellow bell peppers, yellow and red onions, and green shallots, doused in a lemon-olive-oil dressing, giving the non-conventional Middle-Eastern peasant salad an attractively refreshing zing. But the vegetable dish that I relished the most was the fresh spinach salad tossed with sliced fresh mandarin segments, diced hard-boiled egg whites, and finely chopped smoky bacon and dressed with a light mandarin orange vinaigrette. The spinach added a sweet earthiness, the mandarin added citrus sweetness, the eggs added meaty richness, and the bacon added smoky saltiness—a harmonious equilibrium of tastes and textures in this delicious rustic dish.

Bacon chocolate brownie with bacon croustillant enrobed in dark chocolate and peanuts

Prior to the final course of the feast featuring a lively assortment of fresh seasonal fruits, including pineapple, various melons and grapes, and skewered strawberries, and post-dinner coffee and tea which concluded the globally-inflected repast, there was the dessert course which, surprisingly, turned out to be the unexpected hit of the evening. What was presented was not the typical chocolate brownie, for there was an audacious spin on the all-time American comfort food classic; instead, the sweet dish turned out to be, in fact, a bacon chocolate brownie. Bacon is one of the most ubiquitous foods in the Western world, and chocolate continues to be one of most universally loved foods in the whole wide world. In my mind, the initial thought of a bacon-chocolate marriage seemed rather unappetizing and off-putting, but after taking just one forkful of the eccentric flight of fancy, I was mesmerized and blown away. In this disturbingly twisted riff on the unassuming and timeless baked bar-cookie/cake item, the sweet-meets-savoury interplay, a culinary aesthetic which is not new, worked unbelievably well. The moist, dense brownie square, cake-like and fluffier than its fudgy and chewy sibling versions, was punctuated with crunchy snippets of firm, baked bacon. But there was more to the whimsical composition of this edgy and provocative pork pastry. Anchored comfortably atop the rich chocolaty block was a large, amorphous piece of bacon croustillant enrobed in dark chocolate and studded with chopped peanuts; in this instance, the perceptible saltiness and smokiness of the bacon balanced gracefully well with by the sweetness and intensity of the dark chocolate, while the nutty crunchiness of the ground nuts and unctuous crispness of the cured meat provided a pleasant textural contrast to the creamy smoothness of the semi-sweet chocolate. The dangerously decadent ensemble was finished with an artful drizzle of salted caramel sauce, another newfangled example of the recurring sweet-and-savoury collision where the salt heightened and accentuated the sweet-natured caramel flavour, and a liberal dusting of confectioner’s sugar over the entire sweet culinary creation. Together, the combined sweet-and-savoury components transformed a simple, ordinary brownie into a sophisticated, extraordinary dessert. It was baconized brownie bliss, and the porky sweet delight was shockingly scrumptious.

A few days later, La Fédération des producteurs de porcs du Québec presented a similar event at the Musée national des beaux-arts in Quebec City. Here, the guests had the opportunity to try three variations of the mechoui pork based on the individual marinade recipes of the three invited chefs, namely, recent grand-prize winner of the second edition of the popular Radio-Canada television show “Les Chefs” Guillaume St-Pierre of Panache at the venerable L’Auberge Saint-Antoine (yogurt, apple, and maple syrup marinade), Jean-Pierre Cloutier of Restaurant du musée national des beaux-arts de Québec (maple syrup, cider vinegar, and essence de fumée marinade), and François Blais of Bistro B par François Blais (plum and ginger marinade). The Quebec City fête gourmande was equally as successful as the one held in Montreal.

As I savour a bite of an indulgent dark chocolate truffle embellished with a sprinkle of tiny bacon bits, I sit back and reflect on the past soirée of swining, wining, and dining. It was not only an evening of celebration of Quebec pork but also one of revelation of unusual surprises and eye-opening and palate-satisfying discoveries, an occasion to taste, savour, and appreciate the fine, fresh, flavourful foods regionally produced from farms and pleasures of the table prepared by artisan producers and culinarians. From Columbian street food stalls to American tailgating events and from Asian dim sum (點心) (or diǎn xīn in Mandarin) houses to European temples of haute gastronomie, the penchant for “pork-centricity” remains prominent in our food-obsessed, multi-cultural society. Through their culinary dishes, pork-loving chefs and tastemakers driven by intuition, inspiration, imagination, and innovation continue to influence and shape the world of gastronomy as they revive, retain, rework, and redefine culinary traditions and gastronomic practices. Thanks to leading chefs here and overseas, the vibrant food scene has become richer, broader, more diverse, and more dynamic. In this pork-crazed world, there is so much more than just Italian proschiutto di Parma, Danish flæskesvær, Japanese tonkatsu (とんかつ), Korean gamjatang (감자탕), and Mexican carnitas. Life is good, but with chocolate and bacon, it is even better.

Brossard Éclair - 12 mai 2011

Hours: Tues-Sat: 12:00 – 3:00 p.m.; 5:30 – 11:00 p.m.; Sat: 5:00 – 11:00 p.m.
Vegetarian-friendly
Average for meal/person, excluding wine, taxes, and tip:  $25-$40
Major cards and Interac
Rating: ◊◊◊◊½ (excellent)

Bar à tapas Tapeo

Summer is finally here. Filled with sun-drenched skies, blazing hot sunshine, balmy, warm air, and bold, bright colours, the long, steamy days exude a buoyant atmosphere of carefree living. We unwind and bask in the idyllic pleasures of the season, a time for outdoor fun, from soothing dips in open air swimming pools to relaxing sunbaths and refreshing swims at golden sandy beaches; and al-fresco dining, from gourmet picnics improvised around a glass of wine to backyard barbecues planned around informal gatherings of friends. Thoughts of summer food immediately bring to mind the alluring aroma and satisfying sound of delectable meats sizzling over an open flame. At the same time, the joy of summer cuisine also conjures up romantic images reminiscent of sunny destinations and exotic, foreign flavours. I find Spanish cuisine, with its versatile and gregarious dishes which rely on fresh Mediterranean ingredients along with Arab and Latin American flavours, very fitting for light summer eating.

As an important cornerstone of Spanish lifestyle and culture, tapas, with its simple yet seductive small bites on petit plates, has become a big food trend as it has taken the gastronomic world by storm. Originating from the ancient custom of balancing a slice of bread or cured meat atop a glass of sherry to protect the sweet wine from fruit flies, the lowly, edible “covers” became gradually more elaborate and variable with fine local ingredients presented with creativity and flair throughout the diverse regions of Spain. Over time, the Spanish institution of tapas, which is an integral part of the art and culture of tapeo—the tradition of stimulating the appetite while drinking an apéritif and mingling with friends and acquaintances at different bars in town, has travelled far beyond the cultural and culinary borders of its native country and evolved into an independent, sophisticated, and colourful cuisine. The informality of tapas encourages not only conviviality, conversation, and camaraderie, but also a casual yet fun-loving style of grazing, imbibing, socializing, and sharing.

To celebrate life, friendship, and the official arrival of the summer season, my foodie friend, who has never experienced Spanish food before, and I decided, on a spontaneous whim, to wine and dine at Tapeo, a sit-down bar à tapas that I had visited early fall last year. Spontaneity can be a good thing, but there is a price for acting on the spur of the moment. When I had called to make a reservation for 7:30 p.m. that mid-afternoon, the restaurateur and co-proprietor Victor Afonso regrettably informed me that all tables for the requested time had fully been booked, even on a Tuesday evening. However, he was able to offer a table for 8:30 p.m., and I immediately accepted it without hesitation. So on that evening, which, incidentally, was the first day of the summer solstice, a hot, warm day with a mix of sunshine, clouds, and drizzle, we headed off to the trendy tapas joint in the historic district of Villeray. When my friend and I arrived at the hip haven at around 8 p.m., with the initial intention of having first a preprandial drink at the bar, Afonso greeted us cordially. Aware of my earlier phone conversation, he quickly scanned the packed ninety-seat dining room and surprisingly found us a vacant table. Such accommodating gesture was one of the many examples that brought a personal touch to the attentive service. An impressive start to our visit.

Tapas menu at Tapeo

As we sipped and enjoyed a glass of exquisite Williams and Humbert Jerez Xérès from Andalusia selected from Tapeo’s intriguing, exclusive collection of Spanish wines, about half which are privately imported vintages, we admired what restaurateur partners Victor Afonso and Sébastien Muniz had envisioned in the recently renovated and enlarged surroundings of the upscale restaurant. Set in warm beige tones punctuated with splashes of jet black and flaming hues of tangelo orange and crimson red, the simple, stylish split-level space, arranged with paper-topped and candle-lit black tables and black wood chairs, was furnished with hardwood floors, wood-lined walls, suspended light fixtures, and black wall grilles of huge, overlapping rings. Near the entranceway, an art work portraying a matador de toros graced the wall adjacent to the bar decked with an elegant floral arrangement. Written menu items framed in circles—a recurring motive in the décor—were displayed on the open blackboard wall in the back of the room, and behind, the adjoining space included a private room with a large communal table and the semi-open kitchen. As encountered on my first visit, this modern, chic locale was buzzing with infectious energy and palpable exuberance. Tapeo still continues to be a popular hot spot, and muy caliente it continues to be, for the central attraction at this über-cool eatery, is, of course, the straightforward and scrumptious food.

Octopus salad with orange supreme, yellow capsicum, cherry tomatoes, haricots verts, and Italian parsley

At the helm of the kitchen, co-owner and head chef Marie-Fleur St-Pierre, who had studied at the reputable Institut de Tourisme et d’Hôtellerie du Québec and previously put her training to work in some of the city’s finest and highly acclaimed culinary establishments, including Toqué, the now defunct Les Caprices de Nicolas, and Café Ferreira, where her avid fascination with, and pronounced passion for, Mediterranean and Hispanic cuisine were ignited, is responsible for enchanting epicures with her enticing and exciting menu which fuses quality imported Spanish ingredients with fresh, locally sourced produce. As one of the leading (and rare) female chefs in Montreal, the exceptionally talented and skilled St-Pierre, who was recently nominated for a 2011 Canadian Culinary Book Award for her cookbook Les tapas de Marie-Fleur, cultivates the art of preparing Spanish-inspired bite-sized savouries with simplicity and spontaneity. The dashing dishes, which express her personal and inventive interpretation of traditional tapas recipes, are delivered with ingenuity and intuition.

Deep-fried potato straws

It was a challenge, even on this past visit, to decide what to order from the extensive and diverse menu of tapas frias and tapas calientes designed for sharing, with highlights including the crowd-pleasing croquetas de pescado plated with caramelized red onion chutney and smoked paprika aïoli sauce; the appealingly bitter rapini sautéed with olive oil and roasted garlic; the splendid seared tilapia filet “en croûte” drizzled with lemon butter sauce, and the praiseworthy “paella à la Tapeo” filled with shrimp, calamari, mussels, fish, chorizo and azafrán-enriched bomba rice. After some deliberation and debate, we decided to partake in a selection of five savoury tapas.

As we absorbed the frivolous, vivacious ambiance and waited eagerly for our stylish small plates to arrive at our table, we nibbled on the complimentary cosas de picar. Light and relatively crisp, the deep-fried yet non-greasy pommes pailles were delightfully tasty, while the fresh loaf of ciabatta bread which was accompanied with premium quality olive oil for dipping was soul-satisfying.

Octopus salad with onion slices, potato halves, and fresh coriander shreds

Our meal of miniatures continued with a gratis pintxo, two boulettes of tender strands of braised beef crowned with a roasted red pepper sauce. Strikingly unassuming yet wonderfully flavourful, the amazing amuse-bouche served as a tantalizing prelude to the stunningly simple culinary creations—a robust blend of rustic and refined—to come.

Three of the tapas that we ordered revolved around seafood, and each one was a standout. On my previous visit, I had revelled in a sensational ensalada fria de pulpo, a medley of boiled and blanched octopus chunks, fresh orange supreme slices, grilled yellow pepper strips, fresh cherry tomato halves, blanched haricots verts pieces, and fresh Italian parsley snippets, the ensemble dressed with an orange juice reduction vinaigrette and drizzled with sherry vinegar. That evening, we also opted for the cold octopus salad cazuela, but a different version that St-Pierre had deliciously prepared. Bathed in a sauce inflected with pimentón de la Vera, the pieces of boiled-and-then-grilled molluscan meat, superbly tender, were tossed together with onion slices seasoned with smoked paprika, oven-cooked potato halves, and coarse shreds of fresh coriander. More rustic and earthy than the former dish, it was equally smashing.

Sea scallops wrapped in Forêt Noire bacon

The house specialty pétoncles au lardon has become, and continues to be, a hit item. During my earlier visit, it was completely sold out by the time my foodie companion and I were ready to order. However, that night, I was able to savour this showstopping shellfish tapas number. Pan-seared to perfection, the pair of giant sea scallops, swathed in Forêt Noire bacon, was placed in a shallow pool of quince marmalade sauce subtly tinged with apple juice and gently kissed with xérès vinegar. Succulent, smoky, savoury, and sweet, the luscious flavours and textures melded beautifully together. Exquisite.

Spanish mackerel with pear wedges, Serrano ham bits, and pear vinaigrette

In the same vein of creative and culinary brilliance, the Spanish mackerel, the “catch of the day,” took our breath away. Here, the salamander-broiled pelagic fish meat was partnered with pan-seared pear wedges, the whole spruced up with a scattering of crisp, oven-roasted jámon serrano bits and finished with a translucent pear vinaigrette. Although the eccentric marriage between the strong umami of the unctuous fish and salty ham and the delicate sweetness of the mellow pear and mild dressing seemed arrestingly strange, this audacious sweet and savoury combination worked unusually well in this phenomenal delicacy. Divine.

The next round comprised two contrasting tapas which were also terrific. To provide balance and variety to our dinner repast, the Mediterranean dish of grilled asparagus was utterly uncomplicated yet so toothsome. Glistening with olive oil, the slightly charred vegetable spears were assembled above a puddle of olive oil topped with a thin blanket of almond aïoli. Fabulous. The other tapa was a media ración of beef short ribs. Enhanced with a reduction of jus de bœuf, melting tomato pieces, and earthy lentilles du Puy and garnished with shreds of fresh Italian parsley, the assertive meat, braised for many hours, was so fork-tender that it fell off the bone. Outstanding.

Braised beef short ribs with jus de bœuf reduction, tomatoes, du Puy lentils, and Italian parsley

We enjoyed every one of the dishes so much that we neatly polished off every last morsel of food and soaked up every drop of the assorted saporous sauces from the plates with the slices of dense bread. Nothing was left to waste.

Both of us have a sweet tooth, and we succumbed to the seductive pleasure of dessert. From the short but sweet list of simple temptations which included the popular Spanish and Hispanic street food churros con chocolate and an original mousse de dátiles heightened with cinnamon and ginger biscuit pieces and capped with a piment-d’Espelette-perfumed crème Chantilly, my friend and I each chose a different dessert to round off our meal. My friend relished the sensuous Spanish specialty crema catalana. Presented in the traditional terracotta cazuela, the classic crema cremada was lighter and less rich than its French and British cousins, the crème brûlée and Trinity cream respectively. Beneath the signature brittle crust of caramelized sugar, the creamy vanilla custard concoction was softly scented with lemon zest, imparting a distinctive hint of its Moorish influence. More unconventional, the ingenious “choco nougat espagnol” was an imaginative dish which united together two of Spain’s most loved sweet delicacies. A lush layer of intense, concentrated dark chocolate ganache, covered with a generous dusting of cocoa powder, was spread densely on top of a thick base of softened turrón duro, a nougat confection loaded with crunchy, roasted Marcona almonds. Served with a palate-pleasing pear coulis, the luxurious and voluptuous delight, which was not intended for the faint-hearted, was remarkably rich and sinfully intoxicating. I savoured unhurriedly each forkful of decadent indulgence, and I was in silent rapture.

Dessert of choco nougat espagnol

From the moment we stepped into the urban outpost to the moment we walked out of the place, we were pampered by the young and dynamic wait staff. Professional and courteous, the enthusiastic and knowledgeable staff were attentive and responsive to our needs. They knew every detail of the menu inside out and assisted us with honest suggestions regarding wine and food selection and pairings. Conscientious and discreet, they worked the floor swiftly and smoothly, clearing empty dishes and plates, changing tableware between each “service,” refilling water glasses, replenishing the bread serving platter, removing the brown paper table cover prior to the dessert course, and asking diners if the food was to their liking. It was a busy night for the bustling wait staff, but every detail was attended to with care and diligence.

Our brief culinary journey that night was another exhilarating and enlightening experience to be remembered as the alchemy of Tapeo’s passionate, inspirational cuisine awakened our senses, romanced our palates, and nourished our soul. In an enthralling environment replete with unabashed conviviality, spirited bonhomie, and ineffable alegría de vivir inherent in the Spanish tapas culture, we savoured life in small bites. As we returned to our roots of simplicity and purity, we embraced and enjoyed these colourful and flavourful moments in life. Such engaging and enriching little pleasures warrant another return trip—or a few of them—and I plan again to “tapear” and to discover other pequeños placeres de la vida at the lively and vibrant bar de tapas Tapeo in Montreal.

Hours: Sun-Sat:  from 5:30 p.m.
Vegetarian-friendly
Average for meal/person, excluding wine, taxes, and tip: $20-$30
Wine by glass: $6-$16
Major cards and Interac
Rating: ◊◊◊◊½ (excellent)

Menu at Pop!

Wine bars and tapas-inspired restaurants encapsulate the current gastronomic zeitgeist as such taste-tempting trends continue to sweep through the dining scene and continue to gain a popular foothold in numerous metropolitan cities around the world, including Montreal. Small-plate dining, a simple, liberating approach to, and communal style of, eating, is more accessible, less formal, less structured, and more economical. It not only encourages people to explore, experience, and share, in a casual and convivial fashion, a meal made up of many of the chef’s culinary creations in petite portions, but it also stimulates sociable interaction and conversation at the table as more often than not, the diminutive dishes which offer a variety of tastes and textures represent the culinary conversation pieces themselves. As many people embrace increasingly this flexible form of dining as an alternative to the standard meal structure confined to three courses, many culinary establishments, particularly wine bars, which have become hip and über-trendy over the past several years, have adopted and incorporated a menu of small plates, catering to today’s new generation of food and wine aficionados.

There are a number of notable vinous outposts which have popped up in the metropolis of Montreal in the past several years, such as Bu, Pullman, Accords, Buvette Chez Simone, Les Trois Petits Bouchons, and Les Cavistes, all of which not only boast an impressive lineup of wines that have been well selected and compiled but also offer a tantalizing menu of intriguing dishes. Pop!, the adjacent sister locale of the landmark French bistro Laloux, also falls into this category. Although this branché bar à vin in the heart of the Plateau Mont-Royal neighbourhood shares the same entranceway (and venerable kitchen and stellar wine cellar) as its older sibling restaurant, it evokes a different ambiance and aesthetic. Here, the dimly lit milieu captures a vintage vibe; with a post-modern flair, the urban lounge is a stylish study of 1960s Scandinavian décor with Wegner-style teak chairs, arm chairs, and tables and Danish design leather sofas. Furnished with teak-covered walls and sliding panels of Spanish cedar and mahogany, the long, oblong-shaped space also includes a small garden alcove situated across the marble and walnut bar. With tasteful jazz music in the background, the inviting haven is chic and sleek.

Like the distinctively arresting décor, the wine and food menu is refined and modish. And at this wood-toned destination, both the wine and food share the limelight. Compiled carefully by sommeliers David Vincent and Francis Archambault, who is also the Director of the duo establishment, the strikingly stellar and continually evolving carte des vins features a diverse selection of wines, predominantly privately imported, from around the world with a prominent panoply of varietals from France, such as a voluminous 2008 Marcel Deiss Bergheim Pinot Blanc from Alsace, or a fluid 2007 Guardiao Casal Dos Jordoes from the Douro appellation in Portugal. The wine collection counts one hundred fifty references, including twenty vinous options available by the glass. With Vincent on hand to assist the choice of wine and to impart his expansive knowledge of wine, the experience at this cool, casual wine bar becomes all the more enlightening.

Braised and grilled octopus with white beans, sweet peppers, roasted almonds, fresh coriander, and salsa verde

And the gustatory experience would not be complete without the food, scrumptious food, if I may add. Under the creative helm of chef des cuisines Seth Gabrielse and chef de pâtisserie Michelle Marek, the alluring, eclectic menu of small and large plates captures the fancy of pleasure seekers. The virtuoso culinarian Gabrielse, who further honed his extensive culinary skills and knowledge under the tutelage of leading bread baker and brilliant master chef James MacGuire at the now sadly defunct Le Passe-Partout, has learned well from the acclaimed veteran chef, from the art of breadmaking to the art of charcuterie. Since his arrival at this neighbourhood joint a year and a half ago, the menu at Pop!, originally oriented towards French cuisine, has been reworked. The seasonally inspired and locally driven revised menu, which emphasizes simple yet creative comfort food fare, reflects Gabrielse’s vision of modern French bistro and modern Quebecois cuisine that is inflected with fusion flair and accented with exotic and colourful nuances, a hallmark trait that stems from the influence of former restaurateur and chef Racha Bassoul, with whom he had worked as sous chef at the now closed Anise. And Michelle Marek is the mastermind behind the spirited sweets at this bistro à vin. Like Gabrielse, she lets the ingredients in her dishes speak for themselves as her enchanting concoctions are original and elegant yet straightforward and simple. Everything that emanates from the kitchen, including sauces, condiments, and even the bread, are freshly prepared and made from scratch on the premises.

Dessert of "apple 3 ways, caraway and thyme, dulce de leche ice cream, caramelized brioche, and apple granité"

As a habitué of wine bars and wine bistros, I have frequented Pop! a number of times, and I have enjoyed sampling and savouring a variety of culinary delights crafted by both Gabrielse and Marek, including savoury delicacies such as the whimsical verrine of Nordic shrimp, diced celery and apple, and tarragon espuma, accompanied with rabiole chips; the dazzling dish of braised and grilled octopus combined with white beans, red and orange sweet peppers, roasted almonds, fresh coriander leaves, and salsa verde; the praiseworthy plate of spicy lamb tartare seasoned with fresh coriander and complemented with peppery pommes gaufrettes, lively green harissa, and creamy labneh; and sweet creations such as the amazing “apple 3 ways,” a mesmerizing mélange of green apple cubes, honey jelly dices, caramelized brioche croutons, caraway and thyme notes, apple granité, and dulce de leche ice cream; the comforting chestnut crêpe filled with chestnut and pear purée and decked with bourbon poached pear wedges, chestnut ice cream, and chestnut bits; and a mind-blowing white chocolate crémeux caressed with coconut and crowned with vanilla-kissed key lime granité garnished with fresh basil leaf shreds.

Marinated olives with herbes de Provence and citrus zest

I found yet another occasion to revisit this cozy, stylish spot, this time with an eclectic group of foodie friends who have discerning palates and different food preferences. So on a warm spring evening, we converged at Pop! originally for a casual bite, but we all ended up opting for the “menu découverte POP!”, a four-course gourmand menu designed for sharing among all the guest diners at our long, convivial communal table. The friendly and courteous maîtresse d’ Fanny Alaizeau, who is always attentive and discreet, greeted us cordially upon our arrival and ensured that we were well pampered and well served that night.

Our casual feast commenced with a trio of crowd-pleasing preprandial grignotines. Unassumingly simple yet deliciously sophisticated, the time-honoured, titillating little plates of small bites with big flavours provided us a taste of internationally-inspired dishes, transporting us from the sunny shores of the Mediterranean to the alluring lands of East Asia.

A bowl of marinated olives is always a welcome Mediterranean antipasto and snack. Bathed in olive oil enriched with garlic, herbes de Provence, including fresh thyme and anise seeds, and enhanced with strands of orange and lemon zest, the large, plump green olives were irrefutably refreshing and delightfully toothsome.

Arancini di riso with braised rabbit and parmesan cheese

I have always enjoyed Gabrielse’s modern take of the traditional Sicilian street food staple of arancini di riso, a longstanding classic which vary in size, form, and ingredients from region to region in Southern Italy. And when I saw our waiter arrive and place the round serving plates of bite-sized, golden orbs on our table, I became instantaneously overjoyed with excitement. Served piping hot, the set of six deep-fried rice croquettes, which resembled faintly miniature oranges in shape and colour, were coated with a light, crispy batter of bread crumbs. However, in Pop!’s adopted rendition of this addictive antipasto specialty that evening, the glorified fritters were filled with a melting blend of braised rabbit, risotto, and parmesan cheese, a lighter reinterpretation of the cult Sicilian version which are typically stuffed with rich ragù supplemented with mozzarella cheese, and peas, a prominent archetype which I had encountered during my travels in Italy. Formidable.

As the “entrée du moment,” the third table hors d’œuvre was yet another universally adored fancy finger food starter. The shrimp cocktail, a quintessential retro American dish which was de rigueur in the 1960s and which has recently resurged as a popular appetizer at pre-dinner tables as well as cocktail party and reception events, was revived and revamped with a Southeast Asian twist. With heads, legs, and shells intact, the small Matane shrimp were arranged not in the customary martini glass, but rather, in a large, deep square bowl, served alongside another identical bowl filled with a dark red dipping sauce. Although a little effort was required to de-shell the chilled, boiled crustaceans, it was worth the extra work. Poached in a court bouillion heightened with garlic, shallots, peppercorns, kaffir lime leaves, lemongrass, and lemon, the fresh sea specimens from Gaspé, tender yet resilient, were sweet and succulent, and paired with the tangy and mildly spicy condiment, a cocktail made with ssamjang, housemade pimentón, Worcestershire sauce, and ground coriander, every bite was flavourful. And here, the timeless classic dish has been reborn.

As we noshed and nibbled, we were enraptured by the pure pleasures of gastronomic delight of the bonnes bouches. And this was just the beginning of our multi-course meal. As we savoured every last morsel of food from the plates and sipped leisurely our glass of selected wine, we became even more excited as we awaited eagerly the next course.

Charcuterie platter, from top left, clockwise: baguette, pâté Landais, pickled vegetables, mustard, rillettes de Tours, and mousse de foie de vollailles

Fine French charcuterie can be a sumptuous affair, particularly when the artisan cured meats are executed in masterful fashion. During my earlier visits, I enthusiastically explored the assorted housemade pâtés and terrines de campagne offerings from Pop!’s selective culinary repertoire, and I enjoyed immensely every single one of the peasant-style food items, including the terrific tête fromagée aka head cheese or pâté de tête, a marbled terrine made primarily from a pig’s head, all of which, incidentally, are based on Meisterchef James MacGuire’s superlative recipes. That night, in addition to an appealingly simple salad of fresh greens punctuated with coarse shreds of white and fuchsia radicchio di chioggia leaves and invigorated with a sweet confit shallots vinaigrette, the esteemed kitchen dished up a selection of three of its signature rustic pâté treats. Unveiled on a large, rectangular wooden board dressed with a piece of parchment paper, the charcuterie platter was composed of various components. The rillettes de Tours, which is a celebrated regional delicacy from the legendary Loire Valley of France, was stunningly exquisite. Affectionately nicknamed “confiture de cochon,” by the French, the amorphous mound of fine-textured terrine of pulled pork was remarkably rich and marvellously melting. Equally outstanding, the pâté de campagne Landais, a specialty from the Aquitaine region in southwestern France, was moist and firm in texture. Aromatised discreetly with armagnac, the triangular slab of pork pâté revealed a pronounced meaty taste due to the presence of pork liver in this Landes-style number. But among the three cold cooked meat samplings, the mousse de foie de vollailles continues to be my all-time favourite. Scooped into a generous quenelle, the chicken liver mousse, delicately perfumed with cognac, was lushly dense, silky smooth, and subtly sweet. The country-style meats were teamed up with a medley of pickled accoutrements consisting of orange and red serrano pepper halves, fennel slices, cauliflower florets, and pearl onions; a small steel bowl of spicy mustard sharpened with pungent horseradish; and a substantial segment of splendid baguette which was semi-sliced, all of which were lovely accompaniments to the charcuterie spreads. This trendy mixed platter was the showstopping pièce de résistance of the evening, pitch-perfect peasant food of the highest order.

Boudin noir pizza with caramelized onions, marinated shallots, Honeycrisp apples, candied pecans, and fresh parsley

Soul-satisfying food continued to be a recurring theme in the ensuing course, and we welcomed whole-heartedly a series of savoury gourmet pizzas and tartes presented at our table. With a sturdy yet light and delicately crisp crust that was golden and slightly charred around the edges and bubbled in spots, the elliptical-shaped, open-faced pies with varied toppings, which ranged from simple to extravagant, were utterly delectable. The pizza Bianca was the simplest among the flatbread pizzas which we sampled that night; although it was garnished only with crème fraîche and parmesan cheese and seasoned with black pepper, it was equally saporous. A little more elaborate, the superb flammeküeche, an Alsatian tarte flambée, was dressed classically with a blanket of crème fraîche topped with slender onion juliennes and thick lardon strips, which provided an intense salty edge to the dish. It was, however, the other two pizza pies with pedigree trimmings that quickly and unanimously became the standout items of the penultimate course of the repast. The pissaladière consisted of an abundant scattering of black Niçoise olives and salt cured anchovies on top of a liberal spread of sweet caramelized onions, but in this variation of the traditional Provençal open onion tart, paper-thin slices of ossou-iraty cheese were added, lending further complexity to the specialty pie. The boudin noir pizza was the most unconventional, with a garniture of caramelized onions and acidulated shallots which was gussied up with house blood sausage pieces, Honeycrisp apple matchsticks, skinny red onion bands, candied pecans halves, and shredded fresh parsley leaves. In this creative flatbread-style pie, the seemingly unusual combination of ingredients worked beautifully well together. Wow.

Chocolate pot-de-crème, caramel, and Maldon salt

By this point in time, we had consumed copious amounts of food and drink, but we managed to save room for the final course of the evening: dessert. Pop! has kept the popular pot-de-crème au chocolat, caramel et sel Maldon signature dish of Laloux-Pop!’s former pastry chef Patrice Demers on the menu, and that night, we savoured this seductive sweet treat, which has been hailed as one of Montreal’s top desserts, prepared lusciously by the talented Marek. In the tradition and spirit of Demers, the delicacy, served in a Mason jar, was simultaneously simple, light, fanciful, and dreamy. The voluptuous verrine featured a soft bed of velvety chocolate crémeux cushioning a stratum of crunchy cacao cookie crumble, the whole covered with a thick layer of creamy caramel mousse which was sprinkled with a touch of Maldon salt. We relished every spoonful of this luxurious sweet concoction; it was so irresistibly decadent that within few minutes, the Mason jars were empty save for the long-handled silver spoons that were used to commit the act of hedonistic indulgence.

Life is filled with little simple little pleasures, and one of those pleasures is the sheer enjoyment of food. During that night of animated chatter and light-hearted laughter, simple, soulful food and wonderful, worthy wines became a celebration, and we revelled in the sublime fare, prepared with dedication and attention and elevated with imagination and panache. It was yet again another memorable moment at the Pine-Avenue bistro à vin, and I look forward to returning to this wine bar eatery to relive yet another exhilarating, enthralling epicurean experience, which remains vividly imprinted in my memory, and to savour other palate-pleasing delights yet to be discovered and to be uncorked in the Danish retro-modern splendour of Pop!.

Pointe-Claire Cultural Centre

As part of the Sunday Rendez-vous Series, the Pointe-Claire Cultural Centre presents the pianist Minna Re Shin in a recital programme featuring the captivating music of Spain and Brazil, with sun-filled rhythms, picturesque colours, and fiery passion that will come to life under the pianist’s deft fingers.

Recital

El calor y los colores de España y Brasil

Works by Soler, Albéniz & Villa-Lobos

Sunday, May 1, 2011 at 3 p.m.
Stewart Hall
Pointe-Claire Cultural Centre
176 Lakeshore
Pointe-Claire, Quebec

For passes and other information:
(514) 630-1220
www.ville.pointe-claire.qc.ca/en_1219_index.php

Centre culturel de Pointe-Claire

Le Centre culturel de Pointe-Claire présente, dans le cadre de la série de concerts Rendez-vous du dimanche, le récital de la pianiste Minna Re Shin. Laissez-vous captiver par la musique d’Espagne et du Brésil, ses rythmes ensoleillés et ses couleurs pittoresques, la passion brûlante qui l’anime et qui prend vie sous les doigts agiles de cette artiste.

Récital

El calor y los colores de España y Brasil

Œuvres de Soler, Albéniz & Villa-Lobos

Dimanche,le 1 mai 2011 à 15h00
Stewart Hall
Centre culturel de Pointe-Claire
176, Bord-du-Lac
Pointe-Claire (Québec)

Pour des laissez-passer et d’autres renseignements :
(514) 630-1220

www.ville.pointe-claire.qc.ca/fr_1219_index.php

Salon des arts visuels of Brossard

The City of Brossard and Minna Re Shin, concert pianist and honorary president, have the pleasure to invite you to the opening of the 19th edition of the Salon des arts visuels of Brossard. This year, the exhibition brings together 300 painters and sculptors, both professional and amateur. During this special occasion, the names of the laureates in the young and adult categories of the competition will be unveiled. Moreover, the Corporation des biens culturels de Brossard will present the work selected for the municipal collection of art works.

The mission of this event is to promote the diffusion of works of artists from the Monteregian community and abroad and to celebrate the reputation of artistic creativity in the city of Montreal.

19th Salon des arts visuels of Brossard
“Un voyage au cœur de la creation artistique”

Thursday, April 28, 2011
7 p.m.

Centre socioculturel
7905 San Francisco Avenue
Brossard, Québec J4X 2A4

Information:
(450) 923-6340