Laloux
250 Pine Avenue East (at Laval Street)
Montreal, Quebec H2W 1P3
(514) 287-9127
www.laloux.com
Hours: Mon-Fri: 11:30 a.m. – 2:30 p.m.; Sun-Thurs: 5:30 p.m. – 10:30 p.m.; Fri-Sat: 5:30 p.m. – 11:30 p.m.
Vegetarian-friendly
Average for meal/person, excluding wine, taxes, and tip: $25-$45
Major cards and Interac
Rating: ◊◊◊◊½ (excellent)
Print of Paris train station at Laloux
Mission: to find an haute-cuisine restaurant in Montreal which offers an intriguing and appealing array of savoury (but non-spicy, i.e., not spicy hot) and sweet dishes at wallet-friendly prices. This request was the challenge that one of my friends, who has now turned into quite a foodie, has given me. We are so blessed in Montreal; unlike stylish cities like London, Tokyo, and Paris, where it could easily cost you an arm and a leg to eat and imbibe at just an average restaurant, the wining and dining scene in the gastronomic Mecca of Montreal is reasonably fair-priced and richly diverse—there are so many cuisines to experience and so many restaurants from which to choose. Such ethnic variety and affordability are due to the accessible food culture that stemmed from the legacy of the World’s Fair of Expo 67, “Man and His World,” and to the flourishing multiculturalism and perpetual intercultural connectivity which continue to enrich and transform the food scene across the region and abroad.
The French bistro Laloux seems to fit the criteria set forth by my friend. I have wined and dined at this twenty-year-old establishment before, each time experiencing and savouring different culinary delicacies crafted by a different chef. First there was multi-talented musician-chef-photographer-traveller Philippe Laloux, the initial culinarian after whom the restaurant was originally named. But his work in the kitchen at the newly established institution was brief, for shortly after the opening of the restaurant, he moved on to other ventures. Then chef André Besson arrived, and his menu underlined his affinity towards French nouvelle cuisine. But after a few years executing gourmet dishes at this location, Besson departed, and eventually his position was filled by the talented duo chef de cuisine Danny St-Pierre and pastry chef Patrice Demers (of Les Chèvres and Le Chou fame) who introduced a more affordable menu that was fresh and modern bistro-style. But St-Pierre soon left to open his restaurant Auguste in Sherbrooke, and his post was then taken over by the chef Marc-André Jetté. Just when Jetté and Demers started to revive the esteemed reputation of Laloux on the city’s restaurant scene by whipping up culinary magic at the bistro institution, they both migrated across town this past spring to preside over the kitchen of their current destination Newtown.
When I learned last spring that the newly appointed chef at Laloux was the acclaimed gastronomic artist Eric Gonzalez, former co-chef of Café Ferreira and former chef de cuisine of XO Le Restaurant, Cube (now renamed as Vauvert), and the now defunct Le Lutétia of the Hôtel de la Montagne, I was thrilled to hear the news. Although I was not at all familiar with his culinary art, I was anxious to revisit this French eatery. So on a beautiful Saturday evening last summer, my dining companion and I scheduled a trip to “Paris on Pine Avenue” to see what was all the Gonzalez commotion that restaurant critics and foodies were making.
Upon entering the restaurant, you immediately notice how the interior setting of the dining space captures the personality of the place. Governed by simplicity with sophistication, the modern and chic interior décor of the milieu, set in shades of soft vanilla yellow, is offset pronouncedly by strong blackish green lines and punctuated tastefully with tables covered with pristine white linen, black, wooden bistro chairs, broad, black-framed panel mirrors, elegant, suspended light fixtures, and towering casement windows. Near the entranceway, a large print of a Paris train station graces the wall next to the bar, while a lovely arrangement of fresh lavender flowers perched on the bar counter enlivens the sunny room with its vibrant colours. Diners who were already seated at their tables were happily conversing and enjoying their evening.
Everything on the luscious menu, from braised beef cheeks to fried sweetbreads, looked delectably delicious. Just glancing at the menu made your mouth water. After some deliberation, we decided to each opt for the menu dégustation that was offered that evening, a table d’hôte which consisted of two starters, a principal dish, a choice of sweets from the à-la-carte dessert list, and a set of mignardises to cap off the meal.
Shrimp in cream of corn
We first began with a complimentary amuse-bouche of finely chopped shrimp in a silky cream of corn. Served in a shooter glass, the small hors d’œuvre, delightfully refreshing, whetted our palate and gave us a lovely glimpse into the chef’s culinary style. The amuse-gueule set the epicurean tone of the evening, and we were looking extremely forward to what was to be presented as the next course.
As we waited for our first appetizer, we enjoyed the wonderful, complimentary, freshly baked baguette bread which, on the side, was accompanied with butter sprinkled with fleur de sel.
Gaspesian shrimp with fennel, orange, coriander, black squid ink yogurt, and passion fruit emulsion
The first starter, which was served cold, was a visual showstopper. Stunningly eye-catching and colourful, the entire plate presentation looked like a beautiful work of art. In the middle of the large, square canvas-like plate, a handsome mound of fresh, resilient Gaspesian shrimp adorned with thin pieces of fennel and sliced segments of orange were arranged gracefully atop a liberal smear of black squid ink yogurt. The assembled pile was crowned with a dollop of feathery light passion fruit emulsion and a small sprig of coriander. As added touches to elevate the overall design of the food presentation, tinges of the black concoction caressed gently the borders of two corners of the plate, while two other elegant blobs of the feathery light sweet fruit foam added further embellishment. And the food tasted just as good as it looked, a dish that epitomizes the French nouvelle-cuisine style. Inspirational.
Seared scallop with cauliflower purée and parsley oil
Just as spectacular to the eye and even more saporous to the palate was the second starter. In the centre of the white round plate, a large, succulent, and flawlessly seared scallop was anchored in a puddle of vanilla-white cauliflower purée set adjacent to a pool of grassy green parsley oil. The accompanying two halves of the marinated radish, dark pink in colour, provided a vibrant punch to the dish, which revealed an expressive mix of subtle flavours, true textures, and striking colours. Splendid.
In the same vein of artistic and culinary brilliance, the principal course also won our seal of appeal. Cooked to medium-rare perfection, the luxurious saddle of lamb, complete with its excessive fat, exhibited a delicate balance between golden-crisp skin, which was pleasantly seasoned with salt, and rosy pink meat, which was savourily moist. A blanket of couscous nested beneath the tender and toothsome round of meat was elegantly spiced, dotted with chopped figs, and garnished with sprigs of parley. Utterly sublime.
Saddle of lamb and spiced couscous with figs
The dessert course was the most challenging part of the meal that evening because all the tantalizing dishes listed on the dessert menu were outlined so scrumptiously that we were tempted to try them all, from the sour cream panna cotta, strawberry jam, ginger shortcake combo to Patrice Demers’s signature “pot-de-crème de chocolat, caramel, et sel Maldon,” which continues to be prepared by Michelle Marek, who used to work as Demers’s assistant before she became appointed as the current pastry chef. But, after coming to our senses, we decided not to surrender ourselves completely to the enticing seductions of Laloux’s sinfully sweet concoctions, and we each settled on one dessert, different from one other.
The ambrosial desserts which we sampled were pure hedonistic delights; they were so irresistible that we could have easily devoured them in record time, but instead, we unhurriedly savoured and shared the sweet delicacies, relishing each morsel and murmuring in rapture. Just like Gonzalez, Marek is also a talented culinary artist, and her creations do not disappoint.
Dessert of "cherries, almond sponge cake, camomille cream, almond granité. and cherry sorbet"
My companion was intrigued by the dish described as “cerises, pain de Gênes, crème camomille, granité amande, sorbet cerise” which, as we were informed by our waiter, was considered to be Marek’s signature dessert on the menu. Served in a white, large, and deep bowl, the imaginative dessert, an unfussy presentation of white with a splash of crimson red, appeared deceivingly simple; as we slowly dug our spoons deeper into the sweet treat, like archaeologists involved in an adventure of exploration and excavation, we gradually discovered a layering of delectable ingredients. Underneath the generous topping of camomille cream which cradled a large quenelle of cherry sorbet, a stratum of almond sponge cake balanced on top of a bed of dark, pitless cherries and roasted, sugar-coated almonds. Divinely decadent.
Dessert of "Ivoire chocolate cake, pistachios, raspberries, fig, and 'Silk Road' frozen yogourt"
I was attracted by the exotic allure of “Gâteau chocolat Ivoire, pistache, framboise, figue, yogourt glacé aux épices ‘Route de la Soie,’” and it was equally exquisite. In the centre of the white oblong plate, a rectangular piece of intense white chocolate cake was paired with a liberal scoop of frozen yogourt seasoned with a mélange of “Silk Road” spices which were prepared by globetrotters and caterer-chefs Ethné and Philippe de Vienne. Fresh, tart raspberries, lightly sugar-coated and roasted fig halves, and coarsely chopped pistachio nuts provided a lush counterpoint to the sweet and spicy flavours of the combined pièce de résistance. Absolutely ravishing.
Mignardises, from left to right: sablés, macarons, and pâtes de fruits aux mûres
A plate of mignardises, all made in the house, concluded our meal on a sweet, high note. Buttery in taste and perfectly crumbly in texture, the sablés were extremely pleasurable, while the delicate French macarons, filled with cream gently laced with Grand Marnier, were heavenly. But it was the pâtes de fruits aux mûres that were simply outstanding. Dense yet incredibly soft, the fruit jelly squares were bursting with vivid blackberry flavour. Wow.
Not only was the food at Laloux remarkable, but the service was also praiseworthy. From the moment we arrived at the bistro to the moment we made our departure, the knowledgeable and professional wait staff pampered us and took care of every detail in a courteous and friendly manner. They assisted us in clarifying, and elaborating on, the various menu choices, changed plates and cutlery between each course, swept bread crumbs off the table, and made sure, without being intrusive, that the selected dishes were to our liking. (Although we did not have any wine to accompany our superb meal, the wine service here is another one of the restaurant’s strengths due to the presence of sommelier Theo Diamantis, who is able to come up with interesting and enthralling recommendations.) All in all, the service was smooth, sharp, and solicitous.
Needless to say, mission accomplished. Our dining experience was so enjoyable that evening that we could not stop talking about the food, the setting, the service, and the ambiance, even when we had left this venerable establishment. Laloux is not only a place to wine and dine, but it is also a place that offers food for thought—food for the eye, the body, the mind, and the soul.
But alas, the culinary appointment proved to be short-lived, for gone is Gonzalez from Laloux’s kitchen. Since the beginning of the new year, chef Seth Gabrielse has now assumed the post of his predecessor. What would we expect next at this luxe bistro of ever-changing chefs? We will have to see and taste. Certainly, more food for thought to contemplate about.
