Bu
5245 Saint Laurent Boulevard (near Fairmount Avenue)
Montreal, Quebec H2T 1S4
(514) 276-0249
www.bu-mtl.com
Hours: Sun-Wed: 5 p.m. – 11 p.m.; Thurs-Sat: 5 p.m. – 12 a.m.
Vegetarian-friendly
Average for meal/person, excluding wine, taxes, and tip: $25-$40
Wine by glass: $6-$18; wine trio (3 two-ounce glasses): $16-$22
Major cards and Interac
Rating: ◊◊◊◊½ (excellent)
Table at Bu
In the internationally acclaimed magical realist novel Como Agua para Chocolate (Like Water for Chocolate) by the Mexican writer Laura Esquivel, the prominent role and symbol of food and the preparation thereof form an integrated part of the narrative fabric which is beautifully tinged with magical overtones and Mexican mysticism. In this touching, fairytale-like story of forbidden love, the repressed feelings and passion of the novel’s protagonist Tita de la Garza are transmuted into her cooking which transports her emotions to those who partake of her luscious culinary dishes.
We are all affected, in one way or another, by the food we eat. Similar to a great literary or visual work of art or a compelling performance delivered by an artist or group of artists on stage or on screen, a delicious dish crafted by a talented chef can also nourish and move us emotionally as the culinarian communicates his or her artistic expression through his or her gastronomic art. One of such beautiful instances was my recent wining and dining experience at one of the very first real wine bars in the city of Montreal, the unique bar à vin Bu, a gastronomic gem tucked away in the bustling Mile End district.
Ever since it opened its doors in October 2003, I have frequented this hip and cool destination. Inspired by “the great wine bars in Europe,” Bu exudes an ambiance that combines urban chic-ness with convivial unpretentiousness. Simple and suave, its award-winning minimal interior design sports an artful mix of contemporary and classic. Punctuated with sage green walls, mirror panels, and dim lights, the oblong space is furnished with wooden banquettes, paper-covered square tables decked with pristine wine glasses and jewel-coloured water glasses, a striking bar, an open kitchen, and a spectacular wine cellar. Part bar, part bistro, and part trattoria, this trendy forty-seat spot is sexy, slick, and sophisticated.
Not only is the décor visually distinctive, the diverse lineup of wines at this vinous establishment, predominantly privately imported, is astonishingly impressive. Initially created and compiled by the original owner, sommelier Patrick St-Vincent, who possesses an encyclopedic knowledge of his stellar wine cellar, the exhaustive wine list was further elaborated by his successor, sommelier and co-owner Étienne Guérin. Since the latter’s departure two years ago, the extensive carte des vins continues to evolve under the hands of current sommelier and Bu manager Jessica Gauthier. Ranging from great classics to independent artisan wines, the remarkable wine collection features a panoply of nearly five hundred different bottlings from around the globe, with a prominent array of varietals from Italy and France. The vinous options also include a fascinating selection of twenty-five wines by the glass and tasting flights of wines based on themes, such as “la trio en rose,” “trio savoir-faire à l’européenne,” and “trio sapori di Toscana,” which change weekly—an enticing way to encourage people to engage with the world of wines produced by leading winemakers and artisan vignerons.
Wine corks in glass at Bu
Although wine is Bu’s raison d’être, the other real attraction at this casual, upscale mecca is its soulful, sensual food rooted strongly in authentic Italian culinary tradition. Chef and co-owner Alba Delgado, originally from Mexico, showcases her love of cooking and mastery of culinary skills in her creations which she prepares with dedication and attention. From my numerous visits, I have built a collection of tasting souvenirs of the variety of delectable dishes I had sampled and savoured at this epicurean haven; antipasti freddi like the flavoursome prosciutto-wrapped papaya slices drizzled with balsamic vinegar and the admirable carpaccio di polipo with white cannellini beans, sliced black olives, and shredded basil; antipasti caldi like the marvellous medley of marinated grilled vegetables, and the terrific torta al formaggi plated with a zigzag of fruity crème de balsamique and a salad of arugula, fennel, and carrots; piatti principali like the amazing stewed rabbit accompanied with a comforting vegetable risotto, and the superb scaloppine di vitello dressed with Marsala sauce and paired with al dente fettucine; and, of course, dolci like the intense torta di limone with lime-mint jelly, the magnificent mousse al cioccolato with mascarpone cream ornamented with chocolate shavings, and the ambrosial semifreddo al torrone e cioccolato accompanied with a chocolate sauce.
With the addition of Italian chef Andrea Sgro to the kitchen team about three months ago, the menu has been reworked, dish preparations have been elaborated, and plate presentations have been refined. The newly appointed executive chef from Milan, who has worked in the kitchens of several respected gastronomic establishments in Italy, Paris, and Madrid, brings further finesse to the table. And Bu’s other co-owner, Angelo Rindone, an importer of Italian fine Italian olive oils, rice, chocolates, and other gourmet pleasures, and also proprietor of the bistros Café Daylight Factory and Le Caffè della Posta, continues to contribute to the unwavering commitment to fresh and first-class-quality ingredients.
Intrigued by the recently revamped menu, my gourmand friend and I decided, on a rather spontaneous whim, to revisit the stylish locale. Upon our arrival, the wine bar was surprisingly quiet on that particular beautiful, summery Sunday evening, and we were a bit sad to find the classic, modern space sparsely populated. Yet our spirits brightened when we saw Alba Delgado and her assistant Sébastien in the kitchen and the alluring menu which offered a wide range of captivating items, from simple Italian bites like olives spiced with hot peppers and seasoned with fresh oregano to principal dishes like bison tagliata with sautéed mushrooms, thyme-seasoned potatoes, and spinach. Although the original, ever-changing piatto del giorno and pasta del giorno have disappeared from the revised menu, the emphasis is still on the tapas-style appetizer dishes of light Italian fare. My dining companion and I always enjoy the adventure of deciding what to order, and after consulting with our courteous and knowledgeable sommelier-waiter, Guillaume, we opted to sample an assortment of cicchetti.
As we waited for our dishes, we sipped our glass of sparkling white wine from Lombardy, the exquisite Ca’del Bosco, cuvée prestige, from the Franciacorta appellation. Made from a variety of Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay and Pinot Nero, the fragrant wine, with a gentle mousse and a long-lasting finish, was refreshing, perfect for a summery evening.
We also enjoyed the splendid complimentary bread served in a dark brown fabric bread bag, in place of the wooden bread box originally encountered during my earlier visits. It was a smart, practical move on the part of chef Sgro as the bag kept the bread moist. Instead of the customary fluffy ciabatta bread, my dining companion and I savoured a denser type of bread based on one of Sgro’s recipes, freshly baked on the premises. As we nibbled on the slices of soft bread dipped in a pool of fine Frantoio extra-virgin olive oil from Tuscany, poured by our hospitable, attentive sommelier-waiter, we sensed that a scintillating meal of simple yet sophisticated sfizi awaited us. And the thought heightened our curiosity and anticipation.
Olive ascolane with thyme mayonnaise
I always like to explore and taste different dishes, even when I return to the same gastronomic establishment, but I have to admit that I can also be a creature of habit. After having discovered the dreamy dish of olive ascolane at this outpost on my very first visit, I have always succumbed to the same aristocratic, baroque delicacy every single time I have dined and imbibed here. And my last revisit was no exception. When I learned that the signature antipasto of Le Marche was still available on the menu, I was ecstatic with joy. Served piping hot, the plump green olives, coated in bread crumbs and deep-fried in olive oil, were stuffed with parmesan cheese and a blend of minced pork and beef meat. Unveiled on an elevated rectangular wooden board, the seven grease-free, golden brown orbs, nested in a white olive boat, were teamed up that night with a thyme mayonnaise condiment which was placed in a small, asymmetrically-rimmed white bowl. Firm and crisp on the outside and tender and juicy on the inside, the Ascolana-style olives were so scrumptious even by themselves that I was left craving for more when the very last one disappeared from the table.
Lamb polpettes with roasted eggplant caviar
Another piatto caldo from the tantalizing menu which caught our eye that evening was the earthy “polpette d’agnello del Québec con caviale di melanzane roti e cipotle.” Displayed in another white olive boat, the four fried nuggets of minced lamb meat enhanced with coriander and mint were savoury and succulent, while the accompanying mound of roasted eggplant caviar, garnished with a chervil leaf, was coarsely puréed and revealed a spicy kick due to the added presence of chipotle peppers. Absolutely awesome.
Baccalà mantecato with fried polenta bâtonnets
The other selected piattini were seafood dishes, and both of them continued to live up to our discerning expectations. Presented on a white square plate, the “baccalà mantecato con galette di mais croccante” was wonderfully delightful. The two pillowy soft cakes of pulverized codfish, arranged in a tumbler cordial glass, were light and airy. In this updated version, the Venetian brandade specialty, studded with roasted almond slivers and crowned with a sprig of chervil, was coupled with four golden bâtonnets of polenta, deep-fried and crusted with cornmeal. Fabulous.
We also revelled in the other ocean delight, the sensational “ceviche di pesce con agrumi e pepe rosa su letto di finocchio e menta.” Assembled in a large white bowl, a blanket of fresh slices of halibut was set atop a bed of slender ribbons of fennel seasoned with pink pepper and mint. Fresh and flavourful, the crudo di pesce was adorned with segments of orange fruit and pink grapefruit, the entire ensemble dressed with olive oil and citrus juices and decorated with four tortilla wedges baked with a caressing touch of olive oil. Simply sublime.
Halibut ceviche with fennel, citrus fruit segments, and baked tortilla wedges
Relishing la dolce vita, we could not resist dessert so we choose to sample the “duo di tiramisu ‘moka e thé verde,’” a reimagined rendition of the classic zuppa del duca. Presented on a smaller elevated wooden board, the “carry me up” verrines were composed of a traditional layering of rich mascarpone cream and ethereal savoiardi cake, the coffee version infused with espresso and topped with a dusting of cocoa powder and a sprinkling of coffee beans, the green tea variation embellished with a hit of Japanese green tea powder. In this divine double delicacy, the delicate sweetness of the matcha contrasted pleasurably with the powerful bitterness of the mocha and the natural bitterness of the unsweetened cocoa. To complement our dessert course, our friendly sommelier-waiter suggested yet another great wine. The smooth fortified wine from the Douro Reserve in Portugal, the 2000 Quinta do Portal Moscatel, matched gracefully the heavenly zuppa inglese, which highlighted the refined complexity and striking bouquet of noble aromas of the port-like wine. And reciprocally, the world-class sweet wine turned a very simple Tuscan trifle into a sophisticated dessert. An utterly uplifting way to conclude our ravishing and poignant meal.
Duo of mocha and matcha tiramisu
From the two glasses of wine and a strong dose of caffeine, I was wired that night, but that did not matter, for I was moved and enraptured by the cuisine de cœur. Enchanting to the eye and pleasing to the palate, the dishes exhibit a balanced marriage between rustic charm and understated elegance. With their inherent purity and refined quality of flavour, the dishes, at heart, capture the rare luxury of sensual simplicity and the endearing beauty of honest Italian home-style cooking. The warm, hospitable spirit with which the food was created entwined with the unassuming, soigné style in which the food was presented and served that night left an expressive impression of the cuisine and ambiance that enthralled the senses and inspired a love of food and life. Sometimes the best things in life are the simple things. La vita è bella.
