Damas
5210 Parc Avenue (north of Fairmount Avenue West)
Montreal, Quebec H2V 4G7
(514) 439-5435
www.restaurant-damas.com

Hours: Mon-Thur: 5:30 – 10:00 p.m.; Fri: 5:30 – 11:00 p.m.; Sat: 4:00 – 11:00 p.m.; Sun: 4:00 – 10:00 p.m.
Vegetarian-friendly
Halal-friendly
Average for meal/person, excluding wine, taxes, and tip: $30-$50
Wine by glass: $7-$15
Major cards and Interac
Rating: ◊◊◊◊½ (excellent)

Green Tunisia, I have come to you as a lover
On my brow, a rose and a book
For I am the Damascene whose profession is passion
Whose singing turns the herbs green]
A Damascene moon travels through my blood
Nightingales . . . and grain . . . and domes
From Damascus, jasmine begins its whiteness
And fragrances perfume themselves with her scent
From Damascus, water begins . . . for wherever
You lean your head, a stream flows
And poetry is a sparrow spreading its wings
Over Sham . . . and a poet is a voyager
From Damascus, love begins . . . for our ancestors
Worshipped beauty, they dissolved it, and they melted away
From Damascus, horses begin their journey
And the stirrups are tightened for the great conquest
From Damascus, eternity begins . . . and with her
Languages remain and genealogies are preserved
And Damascus gives Arabism its form
And on its land, epochs materialize.

These eloquent and stirring words are those of the revered and respected Syrian poet Nizar Qabbani, words which express his nostalgic reminiscences of, and profound love for, his native city of Damascus (دمشق), the cradle of historic civilizations. As evoked in this piece of provocative poetry, the capital city of Syria is imprinted with lush sensuality, seductive charm, muted beauty, and romantic aura. Geographically located in the Fertile Crescent and positioned at the crossroads of the Orient and the Occident, “al’-Fayha,” the “Fragrant City,” was a major center of caravan traffic along ancient trade routes which provided and promoted not only commercial but also cultural exchanges between the East and West. With its long, colourful, and resplendent past, the Arab Capital of Culture, possesses a rich and distinctive cultural heritage that is complex and complicated, enthralling and enigmatic, dynamic and diverse.

Intertwined with the Syrian tale of intricate cultural crossings and connections, the Damascene cuisine, along with that of its sister city of Aleppo, developed and evolved into an enduring legacy of culinary arts, a successful marriage between the unadulterated sophistication and subtleties of European cuisines and the mysterious allure of exotic ingredients of the Middle and Far East. The cuisine of Syria represents a fascinating collision, dissemination, and assimilation of the flavours of the Incense, Spice and Silk Routes and of the cultures of civilizations that inhabited in, and shaped, this vibrant region, a singular synthesis of Turkish, Greek, Armenian, and Arab influences, not to mention Chinese, Jewish, and French inflections.

In the metropolis of Montreal, multiculturalism abounds in every corner, and such ethnic diversity is reflected in the flourishing food scene fuelled by the city’s passion for delicious fare. Among the various Levantine cooking styles which are found in this cosmopolitan centre, Syrian cuisine has secured a comfortable place in the Montrealian culinary landscape, with gastronomic establishments like the upscale Alep (which offers Syrian and Armenian delicacies) and the casual Kaza Maza. However, one particular restaurant has carved its niche since it opened its doors in 2010 and has generated quite a buzz among locals and visitors alike, and that popular outpost is Damas.

Nestled amid the hustle and bustle of Parc Avenue in the hub of the Mile End neighbourhood, this epicurean oasis whose eponymous name constitutes the French equivalent of the English and Latin “Damascus,” entices the adventurous traveller to a world of mystical intrigue. Inside the inviting fifty-seat hideaway, russet brown wooden tables, elegantly set with simple, modern tableware, are fittingly accompanied with padded cream beige chairs. Imported from Syria, perforated brass pendant lamps fringed with dangling Persian blue and scarlet red beaded strands which gently shimmer in the light impart a splash of contrasting colour to the dominating warm earth hues of the dim-lit, oblong room. Large, matching patterned pillows line the lengthy wood-panelled banquette along the north ecru wall graced with gilt, eight-pointed geometric formations—a common motif in Islam architecture and design. On the opposite side, the urban den’s small but eclectic collection of wines from the Mediterranean and the Middle East is displayed, with bottles from places like Greece, Lebanon, and Morocco, and about half of which are produced by organic and biodynamic wineries. And in the back, the exposed kitchen adjacent to the bar offers inquisitive visitors an enlightening view of the culinary theatrics. Furnished tastefully with accent pieces of Syrian art objects, the stylish space radiates sensual warmth and a romantic décor that is sensuous, sophisticated, and seductive. Like Damascus, the local dining spot embraces a conflicting yet harmonious mix of old-world charm and neoteric chic.

In a similar vein, Damas’ bona fide cuisine is captivating and exhilarating. Chef and co-proprietor Fuad Alnirabie, who, incidentally, possesses a formal filmmaking background, has designed and created a tantalizing menu that celebrates the astounding breadth and diversity of Syrian cuisine. Although the Canadian-born Syrian chef, who also co-owns the eatery Kaza Maza, has no formal training in the culinary arts, he cooks with love, passion, precision, and finesse. Along with his kitchen brigade, the talented culinarian, using only the finest and freshest ingredients which are sourced locally and abroad, meticulously and astonishingly prepares, produces, and presents simple yet complex concoctions, honest and thoughtful interpretations of gourmet treasures infused with an explosion of intoxicating aromas and flavours and inflected with personal and modern flair. From Pan-Mediterranean mezze staples like the bulgur-based kibbeh (كبة) to Damascene standard specialties like the flatbread-oriented fatteh (فتّة), the carte de menu, which is not limited to typical dishes of Damascus, reveals a smart medley of multifarious delicacies, transporting the foodie aficionado to a world of refined Syrian gastronomic pleasures and plaisanteries.

Continually drawn to this ethnic eatery, which is perpetually packed with patrons, I find myself returning to this haute cuisine haven on a number of occasions. And each time, I further explored and sampled other offerings from the extensive menu, such as the formidable fattoush (فتوش), the famous Levantine victual featuring a mélange of diced pieces of fresh tomato, Lebanese cucumber, and green, red, and yellow peppers, slim slices of peppery radishes, thin ribbons of crisp romaine lettuce, and crunchy chunks of toasted Aleppian-za’atar-caressed khubz (بز), the whole ensemble jazzed up with a flourish of fresh ruby-red pomegranate arils, a drizzle of a spiced pomegranate molasses vinaigrette, and a garnish of a large, fresh mint sprig; the breathtaking bamia (لبامية), a soul-satisfying stew of fall-off-the-bone braised lamb shank, tender baby okras and soft tomatoes enriched with sliced prunes and slivered dried apricots in a robust tomato-based sauce enhanced with pomegranate molasses, the slow-simmered mixture plated alongside a mound of plain white rice and dappled with a sprinkling of Aleppo pepper and shreds of fresh coriander; and the humble halawet el-jebn (حلاوة الجبن), delicate, ashta-filled akkawi cheese rolls glazed in an orange-blossom-perfumed Qatar syrup and accessorized with a dusting of coarsely ground pistachios and a scattering of roasted pistachio halves and tart pomegranate seeds, to name a few. I marvelled at, and revelled in, the titillating delights, and I yearned for more.

So I found another occasion to revisit the highly esteemed locale. Together with a small of group of friends, I wined and dined, ringing in the New Year in style on a chilly winter night.

As we whetted our appetite with a complimentary assortment of cured comestibles, consisting of glossy green olives, pink pickled turnips, and a brined Anaheim pepper, we deliberated over the menu. After much consideration, the four of us settled on a sumptuous suite of delectables: three mezze noshes, one grilled delicacy, and four principal dishes. From the remarkable list of privately imported wines, our oenophile friend chose the prestigious Castelgiocondo Brunello di Montalcino from the extraordinary 2006 vintage to pair with our evening regalement, a full-bodied Sangiovese grosso gem from Tuscany that displayed layered aromas of ripe dark berries, silky tannins, and a long-lasting finish.

Among the selected mezzes, all of which were encore petite plates, we gratifyingly grazed on the marvellous muhammara (محمرة), a splendid spread of Aleppian origin. Made of freshly roasted red peppers and crushed walnuts, the ambrosial appetizer, heightened with pomegranate molasses and spices, was strewn with a generous sprinkling of toasted pignolias and chopped walnuts, contributing crunch to the texture. As part of the intricate interplay of stratified flavours, the pomegranate molasses lent a sweet undernote, while the Aleppo pepper brought a smoky earthiness and subtle heat to the voluptuous vermilion affair. Simultaneously sweet, spicy, salty, tart, and tangy, the dreamy dip was divine on its own or slathered over warm pita bread from the complimentary bread basket. Absolutely scrumptious.

Yalanji (يلنجي), the Syrian version of the ubiquitous dolma, was equally toothsome. Gleaming in a lustrous sheen, the five freshly made vine leaf bundles, each tightly stuffed with a vegetarian mingling of brown rice, raisins, and pine nuts, were doused in olive oil and drizzled again with pomegranate molasses, a mainstay ingredient in Middle-Eastern-Mediterranean cooking. Decorated with thin, twisted lemon wheels, the rustic yet refined rolls, which were toppled with fresh cilantro shreds and pomegranate arils, exhibited an expressive play on varied textures and a balanced blend of subtle sweetness, smooth tartness, and refreshing zestiness. Exquisite.

My vegetarian foodie friend, who had a strong penchant for pois chiches, ordered the traditional hummus bi tahini (حمّص بطحينة). After a lengthy interval of twenty minutes, our designated waiter of the evening finally brought us the cold Middle Eastern mezze. “It needed to cool properly,” he explained apologetically as he carefully placed the white shallow bowl on our table. And it was worth the tardy wait. From his very first dollop of the vegetarian trempette scooped onto a torn fragment of flatbread, my friend, who possesses a discriminating palate, was instantly blown away; tout de suite he reached a state of euphoria. For him, chef Alnirabie’s benchmark rendition of the robust tartinade was the best that he had ever tasted. And I certainly can concur with him. Freshly prepared upon order and masterfully executed, the perennial Syrian spread was bordered by a thin rim of olive oil and embellished with colourful speckled streaks of bright orange-red Aleppo pepper, dark goldenrod cumin, and deep red-burgundy sumac. Adorned with a handsome mound of garbanzo beans, the unpretentious purée of chickpeas and sesame seed paste, expertly balanced and seasoned, was kissed with gentle notes of garlic and lemon and a pronounced undercurrent of nuttiness. Velvety thick and intensely flavourful, the beloved legume dish was exemplary. Utterly outstanding.

As the evening progressed, wine and conversation flowed freely, and we continued to break bread together in the ebullient, effervescent environs. We polished off the last morsels of our mezze splurges and waited anxiously for the other savoury indulgences to be unveiled at our table. When our courteous waiter arrived with the two grilled delights, one of which was a repas principal that my wine-connoisseur friend had ordered, our eyes widened with excitement.

Who could resist fire-roasted vegetables à la méditerranéenne? The familiar side dish, which also find itself firmly ingrained in the gastronomic repertoire of other cuisines from the overlapping Mediterranean and Middle Eastern regions comprised of a sunny assemblage of solanaceous delectables and other edibles, including red pepper pieces, zucchini slices, eggplant chunks, potato wedges (which are also cast in the other flame-roasted selection), onion halves, and okra pods, which gave an undeniably distinctive Levantine character to the earthy platter. Intensified with smoky aromatics and flavour, the barbecued items, tender and moist, were subtly seasoned and gorgeously charred. Homely comfort food in its most unassuming form. Superb.

And then there was the grilled seafood dish. And what a magnificent feast for the eyes it was. Stunningly presented, the eye-catching crustacean concoction tasted as good as it looked. The various components of the spectacular showstopper were assembled above a bountiful base of tahini sauce that laid adjacent to a shallow pond of olive oil imbued with garlic and lemon and flecked with a light flurry of finely cut coriander leaves and a sparse scattering of Aleppo pepper. Marked with black charred spots, the centerpiece of this pièce de résistance, a gigantic, one-pound wild shrimp from the coast of Senegal flaunted with its huge, decapitated head, was triumphantly surmounted atop a bed of grilled potato pieces which was draped with a saporous salsa conjured from grilled peppers, chile peppers, tomato, onion, coriander, capers, and pignolias. To finish the glorious composition, a copious tuft of fresh green and purple herbs crowned the shellfish head, while a lime half with seared marks added a sprightly touch of citrus zing. The epic ensemble delivered a myriad of textures and flavours that melded well together, and my friend revelled in each blissful bite in-between sips of fine wine and series of engaging conversations.

Along the same line of commendable execution and imaginative conceptualization, the other renowned main course specialties from the treasure trove of Syrian gastronomical culture also shone brilliantly. And chef Alnirabie continued to impress us with his deft hand and intuitive palate.

My vegetarian friend opted for the modest mujaddara (مجدرة), the medieval Arab dish of the poor reputed to be a culinary descendant of the famed mess of pottage for which the biblical figure Esau sold his birthright to his brother Jacob. In his respectful iteration, chef Alnirabie reinterprets the time-honoured classic, preserving the long-established spirit of sheer simplicity and elevating the unfancy, frugal fare into a delicacy that exuded understated elegance. Served on the side with a tangy yogurt lavished with apple of Grenada kernels, finely diced cucumber, and finely minced fresh parsley, the peasant, pockmarked pilaf was prepared with brown lentils and, in lieu of rice frequently found in this longstanding, lowly staple, its alternate counterpart, bulgur. To provide further punch of colour to the monochromatic hues, the dome–shaped, moist mound of groats and legumes, ornamented with the requisite dark brown strands of sweet caramelized onion beneath a cluster of fresh herbs, was encircled with a broad necklace of quartered cherry tomatoes, cubed Lebanese cucumbers, and chopped spring onion. I don’t think my friend would sell his soul for a plate of this sapid stew standby, but he, indeed, thoroughly enjoyed and appreciated the nourishing and nutritious number.

My other friend, who was game for some red meat, savoured another definitive delight of Northern Syrian cuisine, the iconic kabab bil karaz (كباب بالكرز). Like the muhammara mezze, this signature specialty, which hails from ancient Halab, epitomizes the quintessential amalgamation of local produce of Aleppo and exotic spices of the East and encapsulates the unique cooking style endemic to its city. This peculiar Aleppian warhorse was not only particularly striking in its construction but also in its plate presentation. Walnut-sized spheres of minced lean lamb, broiled and then braised in a wishna cherry sauce to a state of sublime succulence, were set in a pool of stone-fruit sauce together with thin, triangular wedges of grilled Arabic bread that were arranged in a circular configuration, their pointy ends proudly protruding from the burgundy purple gravy. Accoutered with a tumble of toasted pine nuts and a chiffonade of fresh parsley leaves, the opulent plat principal was exuberantly and assertively flavoured, with the sweet and sour sauce concordantly complementing the rich lamb kebabs deepened with a bahārāt mshakale spice blend (بهارات). Accompanied with a small plate of basic white rice, decked here with a freckling of Aleppo pepper and the reappearance of fresh parsley shreds and browned pine nuts, the hearty emblematic dish unexpectedly and pleasantly surprised and accosted the senses.

I was extremely intrigued with the magnificent maqlouba (مقلوبة) whose different variants and countless variations in ingredients, measurements and technique have been transposed into the culinary cultures of the Fertile Crescent. As part of its representative menu, Damas offers the legendary Levantine layered delicacy prepared with a choice of three meats, the customary chicken or lamb shoulder, or the unconventional goose, which caught my fancy as this highly-prized commodity rarely appears on restaurant menus. Gracefully molded and alluringly presented, chef Alnirabie’s unapologetic, newfangled take on the timeless inverted pilaf delight sported a base of fried, plush eggplant rounds beneath a bed of rice laced with poultry bouillon and scented with saffron and cardamom. A blanket of braised goose confit pieces, meltingly moist and tender, laid cushioned atop the stained, glistening grains of rice. For further depth, richness, and complexity, the stratified torte-like treat, accompanied with the same herb-dressed pomegranate, cucumber, and yogurt condiment that appeared alongside the mujaddara, was prodigally elaborated with sweet black raisins, fresh pomegranate arils, grilled pistachio nuts, fried slivered almonds, bright coriander sprigs and chopped leaves, transforming the homey, unpretentious affair into a dramatic, extravagant masterpiece. It was a veritable orgy of intense and nuanced flavours and textures, profound and potent, and I relished each and every forkful of the compelling casserole creation. Lush, luscious, and luxurious, the fragrant “flipped-upside-down” fare was a princely pleasure punctuated with panache. Fabulously phenomenal.

At the end of the main course, we felt fully satiated and had no room left for dessert. To round off our regal repast, we ordered shai, selecting the heady green tea steeped with abundant fresh mint leaves over the stronger black tea supplemented with saffron and cardamom. The hot amber-toned tea served in the customary small glasses warmed our hearts and soothed our souls, concluding our memorable meal on a mellifluous high note.

Syrians take pride in the ancestral and sacred virtue of hospitality, an ineluctable tenet of their culture, an important cornerstone of their prodigious heritage. And that evening was no exception. At Damas, the knowledgeable and attentive serving and kitchen staff extended themselves to graciously welcome and receive passing travellers into their soigné surroundings. In the soft, warm glow and intimate, spirited setting, we felt extremely privileged to taste chef Alnirabie’s ravishing dishes as he shared his culinary art with food-loving visitors. Although our short sojourn to Damas was not quite a trip to Damascus—when it was once a picturesque city whose oriental mystique and splendour transcended time, it stimulated, awakened, and enchanted our senses as we discovered and delved into the culinary panorama of Syria. The indelible memories of yet another indelible experience at this quaint sanctuary still linger in my mind, and I, again, look forward to returning to this coup de cœur destination to succumb to, and bask in, the beauty of Middle Eastern culture and cuisine and to savour and feast on food that celebrates and explores life and la joie de vivre.

Tags: 2006 Castelgiocondo Brunello di Montalcino, Alep, Aleppian cuisine, Aleppo, al’-Fayha, Arab Capital of Culture, Arabic bread, bamia, chef, co-proprietor, culinarian, Damas, Damascene cuisine, Damascus, fatteh, fattoush, Fertile Crescent, fine cuisine, fine dining, flatbread, Fragrant City, Fuad Alnirabie, Halab, halawet el-jebn, hummus bi tahini, kabab bil karaz, Kaza Maza, khubz, kibbeh, Levantine, maqlouba, Mediterranean, mezze, Middle Eastern, Montreal, muhammara, mujaddara, Nizar Qabbani, pita bread, poet, Restaurant, shai, Syrian food, yalanji, بز, حلاوة الجبن, حمّص بطحينة, دمشق, فتوش, فتّة, كباب بالكرز, كبة, لبامية, مجدرة, محمرة, مقلوبة, يلنجي

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